Mercury Manuals?

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  • phil
    phil

    US Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 108
    Topics: 17
    #171867

    I just picked up my first Mercury, a KD3.

    It has spark and 110lbs compression (was sold as a runner). I haven’t pulled the flywheel or the snap ring to see what the impeller looks like. There isn’t a decal, so there are no starting instructions.

    The spark plug wire is cracking, so I plan to replace: do I need to take off the tank to pull the flywheel?

    Anyone have any manual scans that would be helpful?
    I have the condensed “New Part’s List” for 1939-1953 models.

    Thanks in advance!

    http://www.omc-boats.org
    http://www.aerocraft-boats.org

    Avatar
    billw

    US Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 1055
    Topics: 38
    #171874

    KD3s are great runners, when they are right. You don’t NEED to pull the tank to pull the flywheel; but doing so will make your life 10 times easier. There is a fairly recent thread here, about making a modern and readily available impeller fit into these motors. Gear case seals are usually shot. use John Deere cornhead grease or equivalent. Parts lists with pictures are a little hard to come by but I think somebody here has one. If you know how to start a 3hp OMC product, then you know how to start a KD3. 16:1 fuel/oil ratio. They have plain bearings, not rollers.

    Long live American manufacturing!

    • This reply was modified 8 months, 3 weeks ago by Avatarbillw.
    phil
    phil

    US Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 108
    Topics: 17
    #171900

    Thanks! I had seen the Antique Outboarder article, and its repost here:

    wizard wd-3s impeller question

    http://www.omc-boats.org
    http://www.aerocraft-boats.org

    • This reply was modified 8 months, 3 weeks ago by philphil.
    • This reply was modified 8 months, 3 weeks ago by philphil.
    Avatar
    mercuryspecialist


    Replies: 70
    Topics: 8
    #172002

    Hello,
    They actually are “full jeweled” (needle and roller bearings) powerheads, but the lower unit does have bushing bearings.
    Personally, I am not a fan of grinding the thickness (height) of an impeller to allow it to fit. Even with a mill or lathe, it would be difficult to accurately “cut” the vanes.. It however is not difficult to remove the impeller during long storage periods. Do call if you need some help with parts.

    Regards,
    Joe
    (770) 597-5992

    seakaye12
    seakaye12

    US Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 440
    Topics: 107
    #172127

    Just in case others who end up reading this post may not be aware…..the Western NY Chapter of this great organization has a substantial collection of Mercury parts manuals on their site…..available for download. The can be seen here:http://www.wnyaomci.org/manual.html

    Avatar
    billw

    US Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 1055
    Topics: 38
    #172255

    I have never opened one up that I can remember but I have seen quite a few with the power head off the mid section. No lower crank roller bearing that I ever noticed….I had gotten the idea of plain bearings from someplace…..I wonder where….word of mouth, I think. Upon looking at the parts list, I was amazed to see that they had roller bearings for the connecting rod right back to the K1! Wow! Anyway, I personally would still use 16:1 ratio.

    Long live American manufacturing!

    phil
    phil

    US Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 108
    Topics: 17
    #172296

    Anyone know what’s being sold here?

    http://mercury-vintage.marineservicemanuals.com/Kiekhaefer-Mercury-KD3-Comet-1946-Service-Manual.html

    http://www.omc-boats.org
    http://www.aerocraft-boats.org

    phil
    phil

    US Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 108
    Topics: 17
    #186936

    FINALLY picked up a 7/8″ socket to remove the nut holding on the starter sheave onto the KD3 flywheel. There are two sets of (surprisingly small to this OMC guy) three threaded holes in the flywheel: are these for pulling the flywheel? What size screw/bolt??

    Thanks in advance!

    http://www.omc-boats.org
    http://www.aerocraft-boats.org

    Avatar
    billw

    US Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 1055
    Topics: 38
    #186937

    Geez, I just did this last winter and don’t remember, now! I what to say they are 1/4-20, like most small OMCs. I don’t remember anything odd about it.

    Long live American manufacturing!

    phil
    phil

    US Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 108
    Topics: 17
    #187089

    Definitely smaller than the holes in my 1965 Evinrude 3hp flywheel

    http://www.omc-boats.org
    http://www.aerocraft-boats.org

    phil
    phil

    US Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 108
    Topics: 17
    #187235

    Well! Whaddaya know! The inner set of screws *IS* 1/4″

    Got the flywheel off to find it’s the dreaded scintilla magneto.

    I have spark, but the plug wire is in terrible shape.
    It looks like the coil is riveted to the plate?

    http://www.omc-boats.org
    http://www.aerocraft-boats.org

    Avatar
    kirkp


    Replies: 60
    Topics: 4
    #187242

    Phil, earlier you were asking about a manual for this motor. Been looking through my stuff and don’t have one for this motor. However I do have one for a KD4 I could send you. If you look at the K model manual located here http://pub9.bravenet.com/photocenter/album.php?usernum=737212788&album=49067#bn-photocenter-1-1-737212788/49067/1/ you’ll see that many of the parts interchanged from the K1 thru the KE3. Between this document and the KD4 manual you most likely can get SOME info that will help you with your KD3.

    If you’re interested PM me your email.

    Kirk

    Avatar
    green-thumbs

    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 312
    Topics: 35
    #187321

    Allow me to put my oar in…Kiekhaefer singles are pretty simple and
    neither service nor parts manual are needed. If you have a nice
    running example that has not been molested by the unskilled. count
    your blessings. Work carefully, take notes and photos and keep
    track of where each fastener came from as it has to return to same
    place. Impellers, upper seals and the lower driveshaft leather seal
    are almost always bad.
    Louis
    The outer 3 small thread holes are for attaching the stamped steel
    back up rope plate for use if recoil starter fails, The inner 3
    larger thread holes are used with fly wheel puller.

    • This reply was modified 3 weeks, 5 days ago by Avatargreen-thumbs.
    Avatar
    kirkp


    Replies: 60
    Topics: 4
    #187326

    Hey Louis. How you doing Buddy? Haven’t seen any posts from you lately. wondering when you were going to weigh in.
    Kirk

    Avatar
    green-thumbs

    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 312
    Topics: 35
    #187362

    I have a soft spot for down on their luck early K Model Mercurys and the Sea Kings and Wizards also made by Kiekhaefer.
    From the top down…a list of problem
    1) rewind starter: broken spring, gob of solidified grease, missing fasteners and a very small but vital key gone astray
    2) the usual magneto problems
    3) upper seal in need of replacement (7415 )
    4) crankshaft bent or rusted
    5) crankshaft needle bearings rusted (postwar models))
    6) rod bearing corroded (postwar models)
    7) pivot pin corroded stuck
    8) drive shaft stuck in or crankshaft splines
    9) lower driveshaft seal missing or rotted (formed from leather)
    10) bushings in gear case worn out
    11) corroded or worn bearing areas on driveshaft and or prop shaft
    12) rubber water pump impeller defective (usually a given)
    13) seal in water pump housing defective (3 slit water pump housing)
    14) clutch and or prop stuck to propshaft by corrosion

    wear and corrosion issues with piston, cylinder ,water jackets
    or a seam leak with cast aluminum gas tank are not unknown.
    Problem…be patient and consider what your options and consequences.

    NOTE:#1 all problems have one or more solution including down grading from restoration prospect to parts motor

    NOTE #2 What you see is what you get…if it looks like it spent
    a decade or so out in the weather it has issues. If it looks like it
    was well taken care of it may be a rare starts on first pull with fresh
    fuel motor that everyone hopes for,but,seldom finds.

    NOTE#3 missing handle grips, cowls,spark plug covers, knobs and so on are hard to come by and/or not cheap…look over carefully to know
    what is missing and probable cost of replacement before purchase.
    Remove the rose tinted lenses when contemplating spending
    big bucks. At a right price and for the right person, even motors with
    problems can be a right buy. Not every price is right nor is everyone
    a right person and a few motors are bad buys even if free.
    Louis

    • This reply was modified 3 weeks, 5 days ago by Avatargreen-thumbs.
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