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- This topic has 16 replies, 7 voices, and was last updated 6 years, 2 months ago by
crosbyman.
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February 21, 2019 at 4:55 pm #167830
The part number for the OMC crank seal puller.
382944 puller 5, 6, 9.5 HP motors Still a current P/N
377087 puller 15 thru 40 HP motors (except 1962 and up 28 and 40 HP. 1965-1970 33HP) Obsolete 1986
304584 screw Still a current P/N
379239 puller . For 28 and 40 HP 1962 and up. 33HP 1965-1970 Obsolete 1988
From 1970, 71 OMC Special tools book.-
This reply was modified 6 years, 2 months ago by
rmhxruss.
February 21, 2019 at 5:36 pm #167835I believe we are looking for the part number for the gear case seal puller….
http://www.richardsoutboardtools.com
classicomctools@gmail.comFebruary 21, 2019 at 6:15 pm #167844Page 34 of 1970 OMC Special Tool Book has a few pullers.
377565 all models thru 40 HP
parts below
303064 o-ring
301927 seal Remover
306039 Seal remover
309811 seal extractor
309810 seal remover
309809 Guide SleeveFebruary 21, 2019 at 6:30 pm #167845any pictures…or prices…. my 4 inch nail was only 2 cents maybe 3
Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂
February 21, 2019 at 6:34 pm #167846I believe this is what you are looking for Crosbyman
http://www.everythingoutboards.com/brp/tools/377565.html
And photos should also be included.
Having used this puller, I would agree with Frank, while it does work, there are some inherent issues, like the threaded part breaking threads, as it is hardened, I suspect threads like I use for the seal puller would most likely work well. And I am not intending to sell it, just showing you all what was made to do that job.
http://www.richardsoutboardtools.com
classicomctools@gmail.com-
This reply was modified 6 years, 2 months ago by
RICHARD A. WHITE.
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This reply was modified 4 years, 2 months ago by
Mumbles.
February 21, 2019 at 8:12 pm #167853Basically …having no puller I still needed to remove that seal.
the external flange (seal rim) facing the prop is very thin and tears away if you try to pull it with pliers
Normally on a trailer bearing hub you reach in from behind the removed hub, line up a flat screw driver in the bearing inner edge and by alternately hitting the bearing rim from behind it gets pushed out.
I coud not use a flat screwdriver on the seal because the diam. is only .554 making the strike angle to narrow to reach the outer edge on the seal .
by using a 4 inch galvanized nail the angle of attack is the same but the nail’s flat head can contact the full “back rim” of the seal . there is enough room behind the seal to sneak in the round flat head between the seal surface and the carrier body .
hitting the nail from the other end (pointy end ground flat) allowed me to push out the seal by wacking it a few times at 90 degree spacing
If that seal would have been seated all the way in against the carrier I would not have been able to fit in a flat head nail
I can’t say if that seal is or is not normally pushed …all the way in… maybe the PO did not push it in all the way that is why I could sneak in the flat head behind it.
Well, I agree with your approach. Seal removal seems to go easier when attacked “from behind”, making it easier to just drive it out by tapping the driver tool of your choice with a hammer. Using conventional seal pullers with slide hammers just seems to bend the seal lips up allowing the puller to pop out of the seal. Eventually, the metal seal housing is mangled leaving you with a big mess to remove. The tricky part is crafting a driver tool that will reach all the way under the metal lip/contacting the outer edge. Like you say, this can be difficult, especially with the smaller diameter seals. You must also take care will driving the seal out from behind that the bushing surface is not damaged by your driving tool during the removal process….
February 21, 2019 at 11:45 pm #167877well with a round nail head the contact surface to the seal carrier surface is extremely narrow and little or no lateral pressure is pushed much against the side wall surfaces
The attack angle is so narrow I doubt any real damage is possible on the side walls
as long as the seal itself is not fully seated ( bottomed out) there is room to slide in the nail head between the seal bottom and the carrier
I actually think the nail approach this better than using a screwdriver with a bent tip at 45 degrees. That could really stratch the side walls of the seal carrier
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This reply was modified 6 years, 2 months ago by
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