Home Forum Ask A Member misc oil seal puller

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  • #167830
    rmhxruss
    Participant

      The part number for the OMC crank seal puller.
      382944 puller 5, 6, 9.5 HP motors Still a current P/N
      377087 puller 15 thru 40 HP motors (except 1962 and up 28 and 40 HP. 1965-1970 33HP) Obsolete 1986
      304584 screw Still a current P/N
      379239 puller . For 28 and 40 HP 1962 and up. 33HP 1965-1970 Obsolete 1988
      From 1970, 71 OMC Special tools book.

      • This reply was modified 5 years, 2 months ago by rmhxruss.
      #167835
      RICHARD A. WHITE
      Participant

        Lifetime Member

        I believe we are looking for the part number for the gear case seal puller….

        http://www.richardsoutboardtools.com
        classicomctools@gmail.com

        #167844
        rmhxruss
        Participant

          Page 34 of 1970 OMC Special Tool Book has a few pullers.
          377565 all models thru 40 HP
          parts below
          303064 o-ring
          301927 seal Remover
          306039 Seal remover
          309811 seal extractor
          309810 seal remover
          309809 Guide Sleeve

          #167845
          crosbyman
          Participant

            Canada Member - 2 Years

            any pictures…or prices…. my 4 inch nail was only 2 cents maybe 3

            Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂

            #167846
            RICHARD A. WHITE
            Participant

              Lifetime Member

              I believe this is what you are looking for Crosbyman

              http://www.everythingoutboards.com/brp/tools/377565.html

              And photos should also be included.

              Having used this puller, I would agree with Frank, while it does work, there are some inherent issues, like the threaded part breaking threads, as it is hardened, I suspect threads like I use for the seal puller would most likely work well. And I am not intending to sell it, just showing you all what was made to do that job.

              20190221_182637

              20190221_182649

              http://www.richardsoutboardtools.com
              classicomctools@gmail.com

              • This reply was modified 5 years, 2 months ago by RICHARD A. WHITE.
              • This reply was modified 3 years, 1 month ago by Mumbles.
              #167853
              fleetwin
              Participant

                US Member - 2 Years

                Basically …having no puller I still needed to remove that seal.

                the external flange (seal rim) facing the prop is very thin and tears away if you try to pull it with pliers

                Normally on a trailer bearing hub you reach in from behind the removed hub, line up a flat screw driver in the bearing inner edge and by alternately hitting the bearing rim from behind it gets pushed out.

                I coud not use a flat screwdriver on the seal because the diam. is only .554 making the strike angle to narrow to reach the outer edge on the seal .

                by using a 4 inch galvanized nail the angle of attack is the same but the nail’s flat head can contact the full “back rim” of the seal . there is enough room behind the seal to sneak in the round flat head between the seal surface and the carrier body .

                hitting the nail from the other end (pointy end ground flat) allowed me to push out the seal by wacking it a few times at 90 degree spacing

                If that seal would have been seated all the way in against the carrier I would not have been able to fit in a flat head nail

                I can’t say if that seal is or is not normally pushed …all the way in… maybe the PO did not push it in all the way that is why I could sneak in the flat head behind it.

                Well, I agree with your approach. Seal removal seems to go easier when attacked “from behind”, making it easier to just drive it out by tapping the driver tool of your choice with a hammer. Using conventional seal pullers with slide hammers just seems to bend the seal lips up allowing the puller to pop out of the seal. Eventually, the metal seal housing is mangled leaving you with a big mess to remove. The tricky part is crafting a driver tool that will reach all the way under the metal lip/contacting the outer edge. Like you say, this can be difficult, especially with the smaller diameter seals. You must also take care will driving the seal out from behind that the bushing surface is not damaged by your driving tool during the removal process….

                #167877
                crosbyman
                Participant

                  Canada Member - 2 Years

                  well with a round nail head the contact surface to the seal carrier surface is extremely narrow and little or no lateral pressure is pushed much against the side wall surfaces

                  The attack angle is so narrow I doubt any real damage is possible on the side walls

                  as long as the seal itself is not fully seated ( bottomed out) there is room to slide in the nail head between the seal bottom and the carrier

                  I actually think the nail approach this better than using a screwdriver with a bent tip at 45 degrees. That could really stratch the side walls of the seal carrier

                  Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂

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