Need info on evinrude row boat motors pre 1918.

[moxie-man]

I have seen some row boat motors at the last few meets. What is the the average price for a non frozen motor? What are the typical faults to look at on the Bs or As ( should I find one ) motors? I realize the what your willing to pay replies. I am just looking for an average range. Also are replacement parts hard to find?

[hotrod]

Parts are difficult to find.
Make sure it has a serial number tag.
Make sure the bottom crankshaft bearing has not broken away from the crankcase.
The prop shaft should not move up & down or left & right.
Battery ignition preferred by me. Mags can be trouble.
Hopefully it has the brass muffler can and everything else.
Hopefully no cracks or repairs in flywheel, check by keyway for a crack.

[brook-n]

Good Morning Moxie Man,
I agree with with Hotrod’s points. Some other things that you should be looking for is that the water jacket is not cracked.
( not an uncommon issue ) Lower units in most cases are totally worn out. The reversing lower unit on the model A will most likely need attention as well. I personally view the typical unrestored rowboat motor as puzzle pieces and expect to end up machining new parts. It all depends on what your goals are with it. As far as price, I personally stay clear of pricing motors as I feel this is a personal choice. ( as you have mentioned )Opinions will vary.

If you purchase one and have technical questions please feel free to contact me.

Respectfully

[moxie-man]

Hotrod and Brooke,

Thank you for the info. Looking at the different photos of years and articles, certain things are defined. Correct me if wrong. Fuel tank cap – one inch if 1914 or earlier, 1.5 inch 1915 or older, 1909 to 1912 no skeg, 1909 to 1912 throttle spark advance handle no shut off button with 1912 having stamp in brass, and all flywheels have four holes. In what year is the muffler embossed? Are all mufflers brass. Brass flat tiller is on pre 1914 models vs round 1915 to 28.
What should the compression be to run? I know what the magneto looks like on the Johnson A35 but how do you recognize the non (battery) vs magneto on the evinrude row boat meaning can you see the coil thru the holes in the fly wheel? I am assuming most of the motors will be lacking the tank plate. Final question – to check for leaks in the piston water jacket should I be able attach a hose to the input a and output , block the output and use my hot air listen for leaks?
Sorry for all the questions but I am looking for a pre 1920 motor to eventually run and add to my collection.

Thank you,
Moxie man

[brook-n]

Moxie Man,
1909 -1913 would have the smaller fuel cap. ( 1913 being stamped " Mix Oil With Gasoline" ) 1914 forward would have the larger fuel cap.
Yes, 1909-1912 would be skegless.
Yes, 1909-1912 would not have a shut off button.
Motors from 1909-1913 would have four holes in the flywheel (battery ignition ). 1914 was the start of the magneto ignition it was standard no holes in the flywheel However there were exceptions. For example you could still get a battery ignition motor in 1914 at a reduced price.
Exhaust manifold embossment in my experience started late 1911 and standard in 1912 ( Block lettering " Evinrude Detachable Rowboat Motor" )
1913 was the start of the embossment of the traditional logo with the Boat & Motor.
Yes, muffler can were brass.
Yes, the brass flat tiller was used on motors 1909-1914 ( including model D motors )
ID tags, sometimes they are missing. I don’t think I can say they are missing more times than not, at least not in my experience.
I personally do not think you need to pressurise the water jacket as crack are in most cases visual. ( usually on the bottom side of
the water jacket )

As always opinions & techniques may vary.

Don’t be sorry for the questions that is what we are here for.

Respectfully

[kees]

.
like to add 🙂

gas tank can be toast !
rusty and leaking everywhere is a problem , mostly I clean it seriously blow some pressed air in it
hold it under water , mark the leaking spots and try to solder with tin.

needless to say; ARE YOU A HANDY GUY ?
you need some skills
or friends with a lathe, milling machine and air compressor

price ;
it depend on the production year
1920 – 1922 are very common
1927, 1928 are rare
1910 – 1912 are very rare and very hard to find

maybe you can have the luck to find the very common one for around $ 400
depending on the condition
for a restored and polished one you need some more dead presidents 😎
good luck !
.

[moxie-man]

Okay. Just a couple more questions. On the A models, what can typically be wrong? How you check for it. How scarce are the replacement parts? Do 1920 model A units typically have less issues than the older 1915 units?

Moxie man

[brook-n]

Hi Moxie man,
The reversing mechanism is usually worn out. With the motor not running on a stand rotate the tiller handle to the reverse position "R" grab the gear case you should be able to rotate the gear case clockwise until it hits it’s stop position with the front side of the gear case facing the backside of the motor. Rotate the tiller handle to the forward position " F" again rotate the gear case clockwise until it hits it’s stop position with the front side of the gear case facing the front of the motor. Worn out parts are plentiful. ( most are in need of machine work ) In my experience most ERBM gear cases need to be rebushed and have the shafts replaced, in some cases even a set of gears may be needed. Everyone operates to a different set of standards as to what is an acceptable rebuild.
Flywheel mags can also be a challenge.

Respectfully

[Author]

Posts