New coils no spark 1956 15 hp evinrude

[frankr]

These guys know what they are talking about. But I say you have dirty points. Or way out of adjustment. You say you set them with a meter—does that mean you have the timing fixture? Doesn’t sound like it. But simply gapping them at 0.020″ is “good enough” for a one-time job.

Once again, dirty points.

Did I mention points?

Coils are OK according to readings you got before installing

That plug wire with high resistance might have a problem.

Um, points??

[trainsnmore]

What do you think would cause the high resistance on the one plug wire? I watched a video from the after works garage. It showed how to set the timing from the marks on the flywheel and the mag plate using a wire under the flywheel. You take the condensers off and the other wires off the Points. Then you run a wire thru the condenser screw hole up and to bottom cylinder point making sure that it will not interfere with the spinning of the flywheel when you put it on. You then set the Mark on the flywheel between the two marks on the coil plate using the meter. You then repeat for the top cylinder. I did this but when I checked with a feeler gage thru the opening on the flywheel I could easily slide .022 between the points. The points were not new but in very good condition and clean. There was no timing fixture mention in setting timing this way. Have you ever heard of this?

[frankr]

Yes, I have heard of it. I figured that was what you did. The concept is valid if done carefully. That is the hitch. It is easy to disturb things while sliding the flywheel on & off. Most people here know that I used to make the timing fixtures, before turning the project over to Richard White.

The high resistance in the wire probably is due to a poor connection at either end as previously suggested by others here. But the other one checked out OK, according to your post.

My suggestion to you is remove the points from the mag plate and individually polish each contact shiny bright, then reinstall & set the gap to 0.020″ at widest opening. Resistance between points & mag plate should be zero Ohms at the lowest range on your multimeter (wires disconnected, points closed). Not a few Ohms, not an Ohm or so, …zero Ohms.

• This reply was modified 4 years, 1 month ago by frankr.

[crosbyman]

follow the video… when the timing marks line up the points should …just open…don’t worry about the rest of the gap

the coil will fire when … points are ….just openning

please post… again ? individual coil resistances primary to primary and primary to screw point in the coils then install the plug wires and remeasure. the secondary coil value should be the same at the plug clip inside the boot if not find out why it is not .

since you do not have the tool shown below center the marks on the FW ad plate edge….. lift the flywheel off (DO NOT MOVE ANYTHING) and just… break the point contact with the adjusting screw

Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂

[frankr]

Concerning your other thread inquiring about help in central FL.

Casselberry meet is on. y’all come.

Just a reminder regarding our 17 October meet at Lake Howell, 695 Sausalito Blvd, Casselberry FL.
Our lunch menu will include Southern fried chicken, New York potato salad (what a combination when the South meets the North!!), baked beans, iced tea, and desert for $8.00.

[fleetwin]

frankr wrote:

These guys know what they are talking about. But I say you have dirty points. Or way out of adjustment. You say you set them with a meter—does that mean you have the timing fixture? Doesn’t sound like it. But simply gapping them at 0.020″ is “good enough” for a one-time job.

Once again, dirty points.

Did I mention points?

Coils are OK according to readings you got before installing

That plug wire with high resistance might have a problem.

Um, points??

OK, well I am not going to join this post in mid stream, just adding confusion. I’m a firm believer in the “too many cooks” theory… But, I was captivated by Frank’s comments, I am assuming he is referring to the latest video attachment in this thread. I was so intrigued I decided to devote the ten minutes needed to watch the video from start to finish.
There is a basic error being made while the author is checking that coil with the analog ohm meter….He is using the same ohms scale for both tests. So, he could be getting an inaccurate reading for one or both of the tests.
The low ohms scale is used to test the primary winding, it’s proper resistance is usually a little less than one ohm. So, if the author was using the high ohms scale to test the primary winding, he would never be able to see a resistance of, lets say for example, five ohms… So, if the actual primary resistance of this coil was five ohms, the author would be led to believe he was seeing zero ohms on the meter…. Using the high ohms scale in this instance could miss a primary winding with a relatively high resistance.
The high ohms scale is used to test the secondary winding, it usually has a resistance of several thousand ohms. So, if the author had his analog meter on the low ohms scale while checking the secondary winding, he would be misled into thinking the secondary winding was open, it would have been very hard to see the extremely slight deflection off infinity. So, in this case, the author would have discarded a good coil, at least as far as the secondary resistance is concerned.
Terminology is critical when it comes to reading an ohm meter. Terms like “no reading”, or “nothing” can cause alot of confusion.
All I can say is, please listen to Frank.

[cajuncook1]

Fleetwin, sent you 2 PM’s

[fleetwin]

fleetwin wrote:

frankr wrote:

These guys know what they are talking about. But I say you have dirty points. Or way out of adjustment. You say you set them with a meter—does that mean you have the timing fixture? Doesn’t sound like it. But simply gapping them at 0.020″ is “good enough” for a one-time job.

Once again, dirty points.

Did I mention points?

Coils are OK according to readings you got before installing

That plug wire with high resistance might have a problem.

Um, points??

OK, well I am not going to join this post in mid stream, just adding confusion. I’m a firm believer in the “too many cooks” theory… But, I was captivated by Frank’s comments, I am assuming he is referring to the latest video attachment in this thread. I was so intrigued I decided to devote the ten minutes needed to watch the video from start to finish.
There is a basic error being made while the author is checking that coil with the analog ohm meter….He is using the same ohms scale for both tests. So, he could be getting an inaccurate reading for one or both of the tests.
The low ohms scale is used to test the primary winding, it’s proper resistance is usually a little less than one ohm. So, if the author was using the high ohms scale to test the primary winding, he would never be able to see a resistance of, lets say for example, five ohms… So, if the actual primary resistance of this coil was five ohms, the author would be led to believe he was seeing zero ohms on the meter…. Using the high ohms scale in this instance could miss a primary winding with a relatively high resistance.
The high ohms scale is used to test the secondary winding, it usually has a resistance of several thousand ohms. So, if the author had his analog meter on the low ohms scale while checking the secondary winding, he would be misled into thinking the secondary winding was open, it would have been very hard to see the extremely slight deflection off infinity. So, in this case, the author would have discarded a good coil, at least as far as the secondary resistance is concerned.
Terminology is critical when it comes to reading an ohm meter. Terms like “no reading”, or “nothing” can cause alot of confusion.
All I can say is, please listen to Frank.

OK, just wanted to update my reply a bit….
Again, I try to avoid getting involved in the middle of a thread.
I do share Frank’s frustration with the many online experts that post on youtube etc. I really need to stop watching that stuff, wish there was a way I could block it, shows up even though I have not subscribed.
In this case, as usual, I was a little hasty in my reply.
The video posted by cajuncook/David was just a short video to help the author of this thread, it was not meant to be an instructional video for all viewers. David was responding to a specific question/issue.
Cajuncook/David does a great job with his illustrations/pictures/videos on this site, and his help is greatly appreciated. I wish I had David’s online skills.

[trainsnmore]

New problem
I purchased a new set of points Evinrude Johnson 172522 and could not open points enough to set gap. So I purchased a set from Sierra 18-5006 and could not close gap enough to set gap. Has anyone seen a similar problem?

[trainsnmore]

Also with everything apart I retested the coils again. Secondary readings were 8,8 and 9.5.

[Author]

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