June 10, 2019 at 11:22 am #177039
….. Also, yes, that motor is a pain to start and check temps since recoil is in hood…. And that hood is a major PITA to get aligned and secured.. Its a learned trick but you can get it started and get the hood off and on with some patience … The most nerve racking part is when flywheel scrapes the side brackets in hood… Just kind of tilt hood forward at this point and clear the flywheel… Do some practicing engine not running with a flashlight.. This will be a trying time and influence you to do everything possible to get it idling good…. haha … trust me I have been there done that.
US Member - 2 Years
Topics: 21June 10, 2019 at 1:50 pm #177059
You can rope start those with a manual rope with the top cowl off. I don’t usually try to remove the hood with them running as I am afraid of getting it wedged and causing an issue…. Especially if the motor is warmed up, they start easily enough to rope them over. There is a notch in the flywheel for a knot, but even in not, the tabs on the flywheel will hold a knot enough to do a quick rope start.
P.S. Great to see you posting again Jayzon!June 10, 2019 at 10:16 pm #177101
His does not have earlier Phelon with notch, in my experience the later does not lend itself to rope starting.. besides I have had the rope knot stick in notch before, engine start, and swing wood handle around like a medieval weapon.. got hit pretty good in head once… it is indeed what notch is for but for reason stated I don’t recommend. ..haha
I sold all of my merc 200s besides my nice 63. This topic drew me back in since it’s one of my favorites.
June 11, 2019 at 12:16 am #177107
- This reply was modified 3 months, 1 week ago by JayzonAych.
I took the old Starcraft and Mercury 200 out for it first lake run in at least 15 years tonight since the weather was pretty much ideal. 70 degrees and no wind. Its a pretty small “no wake” local lake so I kept things pretty slow since there were quite a few other boats around. I started with the fuel mixture screw at 1-1/4 turns out as Jayzon suggested. I couldn’t ever get the throttle to roll back to full stop idle without it dying. I tried adjusting the mixture screw CW a 1/4 turn to lean it and it dies at full idle. I tried to turn the mixture screw CCW a 1/4 turn to 1-1/2 turns out, enriching the mixture, and the same result. I wanted to do more testing, but with the cover off I was wrapping a wood handled starter rope around the tabs on the flywheel. Most of the time the knot would release and it would start pretty easily, but there was more than once when the knot didn’t release, and rope got wrapped back around the fly wheel as the engine tried to start. That seemed like it was getting kind of sketchy, so I just got it restarted and cruised around for a while.
Tell tale didn’t seem to be sending out much water, but the engine stayed cool. I kept reaching up and touching the upper cylinder when we were underway and it was only ever luke warm feeling. So that’s a good sign.
With the idle being so finicky, my fear that Jayzon is correct about needing to address the seals. I was really hoping it wouldn’t come to that.June 11, 2019 at 12:17 am #177109
Don’t know if this video link will work but I’ll try it.June 11, 2019 at 8:03 am #177122
Your google drive link requires a login account.
Glad to hear another 63 merc 200 is churning up the water of another lake. They are funnest at WOT, you need to get it to another lake 🙂
You can do the top crank seal fairly easy by removing flywheel then mag plate and would be “low hanging fruit” at this point. You don’t really need to pull the bearing carrier as I stated before. I had replaced a bearing in one and that is where my head was. I use an old ice pick, to punch a hole in seal casing (not bearing housing) on both sides then carefully pry it out with a piece of wood as a fulcrum. That may get it to idle a bit better. For perfection you will need to do the rest. I use SKF seal 9243 for the upper crank seal. The 2 stacked lower crank seals are 2 x 8624
In my opinion that motor is very worthy venture. Really cool and unique styling and a lot of features of a modern motor.
BTW, your realistic goal should be to get it to slow to troll at no wake speeds. Getting it to idle perfectly down in the area of “stop” probably an unrealistic goal.June 11, 2019 at 8:26 am #177131
to add to my previous comment… one thing to consider is if bottom seals are leaking that means it may also be sucking in water…. However there are 2 of them so chances are a little better. Your motor was obviously cared for and kept indoors so there is a chance the seals are decent enough to keep water out. Only one way to know for sure though.June 11, 2019 at 10:26 pm #177161
Well I guess I’m gonna try the Youtube route.June 13, 2019 at 8:18 am #177202
Doesn’t sound to bad. Can you maintain a speed below no wake?
US Member - 1 Year
Topics: 47June 13, 2019 at 10:19 am #177207
Desmadromic valves In the CL 450. That is a one year model. You are speaking of the motorcycle? The pressure relief system gets clogged below the powerhead. Need to pull the powerhead to clean it.
I too have a 63 200.
June 18, 2019 at 7:49 pm #177494
- This reply was modified 3 months ago by jeff-register.
Well I will start with the good news….. I wanted to get it on a lake where I could actually open the old Mercury up and see what it could do. My wife and I took the Mercury 200 and the Starcraft out for a cruise on Saturday afternoon for about 45 minutes. I ran it at full throttle quite a bit, seemed to run pretty well. More importantly I wanted to see if it would idle down below the “no wake” point. Without having another engine to compare it to I thought it did pretty well. Here’s a couple of example videos.
The tell tale doesn’t show much until you get into higher RPMs, but once it gets going it looks like its flowing quite well.June 18, 2019 at 10:55 pm #177515
And for the bad news… When I was putting the engine support rod back on to go home I noticed a lot of fuel mix on the bottom of the pan below the power head.
I pulled the cover off and noticed fuel spray on my newly installed fuel line. Plus there was obviously fuel being sprayed out from the seam where the crankcase splits.
Previously the exhaust side of the engine looked to be in good condition and well sealed. But after our lake run, it looks to be leaking now as well.
So unfortunately Jayzon was very correct about the seals for the crankcase being an issue. I went from thinking this project was wrapping up nicely as I pulled back up to dock with the boat…. to realizing I have only just begun on getting this engine back up to good working order.
You must be logged in to access attached files.July 22, 2019 at 10:13 am #179316
Its taken a while but I finally got around to pulling the powerhead from the Mercury 200 so that I could address the leaks around the crankcase seam. This is my first time working on an outboard motor so I was cautious about getting in over my head. Finally I got the courage.
This also gave a a chance to make sure the exhaust relief chamber was cleaned and clear. It was fairly dirty, but not blocked, so I don’t think there were any issues with the exhaust back pressure before now. Still good to know that it is cleaner than it was previously and should be for quite a while in the future. The gasket for the exhaust relief cover is NLA. Is there anything special I would need to consider in making a new one?
The photos from the previous post clearly show leaks on both sides of crankcase, and as Jayzon this was causing a lack of idle performance. Now that I’ve got the case split, I can see that there is essentially nothing the keeps the two halves of the case sealed other than a perfectly matched fit. Jayzon stated Loctite 518( anaerobic gasket sealer) would work to seal the two halves upon reassembly. Loctite 518 is tough to find locally, but everyone has lots of Permatex products. Does anyone know what the equivalent Permatex product would be, and if its an acceptable substitute?
How much of the Loctite or Permatex should be used? I am assuming that I would need the absolute minimum amount.
Also I was considering replacing the single upper and the dual lower crank seals at this point, but the current ones seem to be in good condition. Should I pull the flywheel and magneto so I can replace the seals, or just run the ones I have?
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