New to AOMC with a 1963 mercury 200

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  • nicholas soper


    Replies: 13
    Topics: 1
    #177108

    I took the old Starcraft and Mercury 200 out for it first lake run in at least 15 years tonight since the weather was pretty much ideal. 70 degrees and no wind. Its a pretty small “no wake” local lake so I kept things pretty slow since there were quite a few other boats around. I started with the fuel mixture screw at 1-1/4 turns out as Jayzon suggested. I couldn’t ever get the throttle to roll back to full stop idle without it dying. I tried adjusting the mixture screw CW a 1/4 turn to lean it and it dies at full idle. I tried to turn the mixture screw CCW a 1/4 turn to 1-1/2 turns out, enriching the mixture, and the same result. I wanted to do more testing, but with the cover off I was wrapping a wood handled starter rope around the tabs on the flywheel. Most of the time the knot would release and it would start pretty easily, but there was more than once when the knot didn’t release, and rope got wrapped back around the fly wheel as the engine tried to start. That seemed like it was getting kind of sketchy, so I just got it restarted and cruised around for a while.

    Tell tale didn’t seem to be sending out much water, but the engine stayed cool. I kept reaching up and touching the upper cylinder when we were underway and it was only ever luke warm feeling. So that’s a good sign.

    With the idle being so finicky, my fear that Jayzon is correct about needing to address the seals. I was really hoping it wouldn’t come to that.


    nicholas soper


    Replies: 13
    Topics: 1
    #177109

    Don’t know if this video link will work but I’ll try it.

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/1zKZzBgt4E6gxebEXbeHTRCIE87rhSSwO/view?usp=drivesdk


    JayzonAych


    Replies: 15
    Topics: 0
    #177122

    Your google drive link requires a login account.

    Glad to hear another 63 merc 200 is churning up the water of another lake. They are funnest at WOT, you need to get it to another lake 🙂

    You can do the top crank seal fairly easy by removing flywheel then mag plate and would be “low hanging fruit” at this point. You don’t really need to pull the bearing carrier as I stated before. I had replaced a bearing in one and that is where my head was. I use an old ice pick, to punch a hole in seal casing (not bearing housing) on both sides then carefully pry it out with a piece of wood as a fulcrum. That may get it to idle a bit better. For perfection you will need to do the rest. I use SKF seal 9243 for the upper crank seal. The 2 stacked lower crank seals are 2 x 8624

    In my opinion that motor is very worthy venture. Really cool and unique styling and a lot of features of a modern motor.

    BTW, your realistic goal should be to get it to slow to troll at no wake speeds. Getting it to idle perfectly down in the area of “stop” probably an unrealistic goal.

    • This reply was modified 4 years, 9 months ago by JayzonAych.
    • This reply was modified 4 years, 9 months ago by JayzonAych.

    JayzonAych


    Replies: 15
    Topics: 0
    #177131

    to add to my previous comment… one thing to consider is if bottom seals are leaking that means it may also be sucking in water…. However there are 2 of them so chances are a little better. Your motor was obviously cared for and kept indoors so there is a chance the seals are decent enough to keep water out. Only one way to know for sure though.


    nicholas soper


    Replies: 13
    Topics: 1
    #177161

    Well I guess I’m gonna try the Youtube route.

    https://youtu.be/Hs4tgUg7eig


    JayzonAych


    Replies: 15
    Topics: 0
    #177202

    Doesn’t sound to bad. Can you maintain a speed below no wake?


    jeff-register

    US Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 1562
    Topics: 54
    #177207

    Desmadromic valves In the CL 450. That is a one year model. You are speaking of the motorcycle? The pressure relief system gets clogged below the powerhead. Need to pull the powerhead to clean it.
    I too have a 63 200.

    • This reply was modified 4 years, 9 months ago by jeff-register.

    nicholas soper


    Replies: 13
    Topics: 1
    #177494

    Well I will start with the good news….. I wanted to get it on a lake where I could actually open the old Mercury up and see what it could do. My wife and I took the Mercury 200 and the Starcraft out for a cruise on Saturday afternoon for about 45 minutes. I ran it at full throttle quite a bit, seemed to run pretty well. More importantly I wanted to see if it would idle down below the “no wake” point. Without having another engine to compare it to I thought it did pretty well. Here’s a couple of example videos.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dTV-2Tj1fOg

    The tell tale doesn’t show much until you get into higher RPMs, but once it gets going it looks like its flowing quite well.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R5YMS2OlHBk


    nicholas soper


    Replies: 13
    Topics: 1
    #177515

    And for the bad news… When I was putting the engine support rod back on to go home I noticed a lot of fuel mix on the bottom of the pan below the power head.

    IMG_6399-copy

    I pulled the cover off and noticed fuel spray on my newly installed fuel line. Plus there was obviously fuel being sprayed out from the seam where the crankcase splits.

    IMG_6403-copy

    Previously the exhaust side of the engine looked to be in good condition and well sealed. But after our lake run, it looks to be leaking now as well.

    IMG_6252-copy

    IMG_6405-copy

    So unfortunately Jayzon was very correct about the seals for the crankcase being an issue. I went from thinking this project was wrapping up nicely as I pulled back up to dock with the boat…. to realizing I have only just begun on getting this engine back up to good working order.


    nicholas soper


    Replies: 13
    Topics: 1
    #179316

    Its taken a while but I finally got around to pulling the powerhead from the Mercury 200 so that I could address the leaks around the crankcase seam. This is my first time working on an outboard motor so I was cautious about getting in over my head. Finally I got the courage.

    IMG_4069

    IMG_4071

    IMG_4066

    This also gave a a chance to make sure the exhaust relief chamber was cleaned and clear. It was fairly dirty, but not blocked, so I don’t think there were any issues with the exhaust back pressure before now. Still good to know that it is cleaner than it was previously and should be for quite a while in the future. The gasket for the exhaust relief cover is NLA. Is there anything special I would need to consider in making a new one?

    The photos from the previous post clearly show leaks on both sides of crankcase, and as Jayzon this was causing a lack of idle performance. Now that I’ve got the case split, I can see that there is essentially nothing the keeps the two halves of the case sealed other than a perfectly matched fit. Jayzon stated Loctite 518( anaerobic gasket sealer) would work to seal the two halves upon reassembly. Loctite 518 is tough to find locally, but everyone has lots of Permatex products. Does anyone know what the equivalent Permatex product would be, and if its an acceptable substitute?

    How much of the Loctite or Permatex should be used? I am assuming that I would need the absolute minimum amount.

    Also I was considering replacing the single upper and the dual lower crank seals at this point, but the current ones seem to be in good condition. Should I pull the flywheel and magneto so I can replace the seals, or just run the ones I have?

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