new (to me) motor!

[tin-knocker]

I seem to have picked up its twin last summer complete with the broken exhaust outlet. The powerhead is locked up tight and the driveshaft is rusted into the crank so I can’t get the powerhead off. I was going to junk it but seeing your project I may take another look at it. Good luck with yours.

[opposedtwin]

20mercman and jerry: thanks for thinking of the parts I may need. I’d be interested to hear and see what you’ve got. my email is sabraaten@hotmail.com

archangel: the batman "tool" is really nothing more than a good luck charm. it was a toy I played with when I was a kid. my dad had it on a nail in his "shop" and he thought I should have it back. I have not seen the cape since I was in the single digits back in the 60s. my plan was to actually BECOME batman and fight crime as a vigilante. I still think we need a batman out there.

as for the lack of spark in the upper, here’s where I’m at. the coil tested bad when mounted to the stator plate. took it out to swap it out and it separated from the plug wire really easily–strange. tested the coil on the bench and it’s good–these are the green type so they are not original. the end of the plug wire looked a bit corroded so I trimmed it back about 3/8 of an inch. still no continuity between the coil end and the plug end. it looks clean but wires are hard (if not impossible) to gauge with the human eye–thus the multimeter! so I’m thinking a bad connection may exist between the boot spring and the plug wire itself. as many of you have probably experienced, the boot is not easy to separate from the wire. I would be interested in any tips you may have to help me out here–hair dryer to make the rubber more pliable? I have to say that with all the coils I’ve changed, I have never had a bad plug wire until now.

thanks for any and all suggestions!
scott

[opposedtwin]

quote tin knocker:

I seem to have picked up its twin last summer complete with the broken exhaust outlet. The powerhead is locked up tight and the driveshaft is rusted into the crank so I can’t get the powerhead off. I was going to junk it but seeing your project I may take another look at it. Good luck with yours.

ouch! man I have seen that a couple times too. I was lucky and found gently tapping on the lower with a rubber mallet was enough to free it up. penetrating oil is hard to introduce into that equation, but it will help if you can get any to the spot.

[archangel]

Every shop needs a good mascot. That seems like a pretty darn good one to me!

[outboardnut]

Batman-shaped tool is used to look at inside of tanks

[archangel]

If Batman weren’t so busy fighting crime all the time, he’d be a good guy to send inside the tanks to clean them up. Maybe even hammer the dents out from the inside while he was there.

[lloyd]

"a bad connection may exist between the boot spring and the plug wire itself. as many of you have probably experienced, the boot is not easy to separate from the wire. I would be interested in any tips you may have to help me out here–hair dryer to make the rubber more pliable? I have to say that with all the coils I’ve changed, I have never had a bad plug wire until now."

Pretty common problem. To pull that old dry boot off the wire you just need a little oil in there. Use a tiny screwdriver or piece of wire and push it all the way down between the ign. wire and the boot. Then drip or spray a little oil into the tiny gap made by the wire/screwdriver. Repeat a couple times around the circumference of the boot. Then just pull the boot straight off of the ign. wire. Works like a charm and only takes a minute. After the wire and spring are out of the boot, strip 1/8" insulation from the wire and splay out the wires. Reinstall the spring back onto the wire in a new position. Press the spring point into the wire with pliers. Push back into the boot. Very rarely ever necessary to replace the ign. wire on those 50’s motors.

I am sure you already know that the Green German Prufex coils screw onto the wire instead of just push fit like the original OMC coils. Must screw the wire into the coil terminal.

[kees]

quote Jerry Ahrens:

Be sure to use 16/1 ratio on that one, originally called for from the factory. I may have a set of lower cowls for that one to, I’ll have to check.

you are right Jerry 😮
1/2 pint in a 1 gallon = 1 : 16

[kees]

found this on the web
from instructions to parts manual and special for you the "troubleshooting"

http://www.outboard-boat-motor-repair.c … Manual.htm

[opposedtwin]

kees thanks for the link regarding the owner’s manual and parts catalog.

Lloyd, thanks for the tip on the boot. I used my wife’s hair dryer (apparently towels don’t work on women!) and it made the rubber supple enough to work the spring out and back in. but I plan to try oil in the future. the spring looks like it was not centered on the wire and so that’s where the lost connection occurred.

I learned a valuable lesson on this motor that I thought I had learned some time ago but clearly forgot. start with the simple stuff first. I got hung up on the coil and it’s path without even checking the point gap. turns out that even after all that work, the gap was set too small on the cyl that had no spark. .020 did the trick!

I ran the lightwin in a test barrel and WOW! what a nice thrill it was to see it run, respond well and pump water like a fire hydrant! (ok, a very little fire hydrant)

I really needed this experience! I have been losing my desire to work on my motors over the last few months. granted, the winter had a lot to do with that, but I do have a nice little work space in the basement. it was so much fun poking around on this little evinrude. it made me see again how FUN this hobby is. thanks ole!

and thanks to all you guys who replied and helped out on this thread!

scott

[Author]

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