New Toy CD-12 Tank Cleaning question

[Steve A W]

Too bad the guy that designed those tanks didn’t make the
hole a half inch wider !!

Steve A W

Member of the MOB chapter.
I live in Northwest Indiana

[bullie]

quote Steve A W:

Too bad the guy that designed those tanks didn’t make the
hole a half inch wider !!

Steve A W

Exactly! What was he thinking? He had ONE JOB.

[wedgie]

quote Steve A W:

Too bad the guy that designed those tanks didn’t make the
hole a half inch wider !!

Steve A W

You gotta remember, on average, people were skinnier in those days 😆 But seriously, if you have any doubts, you can put a clear inline filter in the fuel line and get a visual that all the loose bits are gone

[bullie]

I think Wedgie just called me fat.

Sadly, he’s right.

[wedgie]

Geeze, sorry, i didn’t mean that ! Actually, I am skinny, and I cut up my forearms reaching in there too .

[david-bartlett]

The great thing about the OMC pressure tanks is that you can see inside them quite well when you take them apart, and pretty much all the parts are still available if needed.

[Mumbles]

My meathooks will barely fit into a tank and when they do, I pay for it with the hide on my forearm all torn and bleeding. Being a bit wiser in my old age now, I use a stick with a cloth to swish around inside a tank or I bead the inside.

Here’s some info by Dan Kruitz on using electrolysis to remove rust. It works well and with the three bank charger, I can do three tanks at once!

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[Doug Wilson]

i would suggest getting a whole kit for the tankk and replace the diaphram and orings and take a good look at the hose probably replace the lines on the motor side too. when it is done should be good for the next 10 or 15 years great looking motor can not find many that run as good as the 5.5hp fishing motors

Doug

how is it motors multiply when the garage lights get
turned off?

[bullie]

You know what happens when you assume stuff right?

Good news and bad news. The good first. Removed everything from the mag plate and cleaned it up a little, replaced the coils and condensers, got the point contacts nice and shiny and then checked for spark. Nice bright blue snaps. Life is good. I removed the carb, cleaned it and installed a kit. Looks really good there too. The original cork float even looked to be in excellent shape. Feeling better all the time.

Then…
I pull the powerhead to replace the impeller. All goes well but the shift shaft looks a little bent. The old impeller looks good except that it has taken a good deal of set. I install the new impeller, hook the shifter back up then sit down and start scraping the old base gasket off the powerhead. After a few scrapes something doesn’t look right to me so I get out the new one. I assumed it would be the same part number as the 58 Evinrude 5.5 I was working on last week and just got another one since 1955 parts aren’t listed on any of the parts websites I frequent. But, guess what. It is definitely not the same. LOL So, now I have to find the correct part number and wait again. Sheesh. I was hoping to run it today.

And, as I was staring at the leg of the motor and growling I noticed I had not reinstalled the roll pin in the drive shaft. I love this stuff.

This motor looks really good though. I am proud of it.

Anyone know the part number for the base gasket?
I also replaced the cork gasket around the base of the pressure tank today. Should I be able to pump up some pressure with the tank empty and connector not attached? I couldn’t hear any air escaping or detect any pressure building. I guess it may need a new diaphragm?

[fleetwin]

quote Bullie:

Ok. Parts list while I am at it. What else am I missing?

Impeller
coils (2)
tank gasket

base gasket ?
condensers (2)?
carb kit ?

You will also want the oring and gasket for the lower crank seal:
303355 gasket for lower seal
303347 oring for lower seal
303261 roll pin retainer for driveshaft/seal assembly (you will want to order one of these, you may not need it though if you can pop the upper driveshaft out of the gearcase easily)
172522 tune up kit that includes points/condensers and new cam felt wiper which is important

You will probably want a new diaphragm for your pressure tank, but the part number depends on the style primer you have, some have metal primer buttons, some have plastic ones.
You will probably want new tank connector orings as someone has mentioned

I recommend using the OEM parts from BRP/OMC, especially the impeller and tune up kit

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