New Toy CD-12 Tank Cleaning question

[bullie]

Thanks fleetwin.

I used all OEM parts for the carb, impeller, etc. I try to do that everytime I can.

My tank has the metal priming button. I see a kit on ebay but want to make sure I get the right parts. So, hoping someone will direct me to a good source.

I cannot find a parts breakdown for a 1955 but my research leads me to think that the correct part number for the base gasket is 0303467. Maybe someone can confirm that for me.

[wedgie]

303467 it is !

cd 12.pdf

[bullie]

Groovy! Thanks Wedgie! Wish I had asked before I bought a SPARE 1958 gasket.

[wedgie]

No problemo Bullie.

I have a cosmetically nice CD12, with a bad powerhead 🙁 . When I get a chance I may swap a ’57 powerhead to it.Edit: but of course now I see it wont work as the 54 and 55 are the same, and the 56 to 58 5.5’s had the different base gaskets 😳

[bullie]

More tank info. My tank is a Johnson Mile Master 4 gallon tank with the metal pump.

Is this what I need? Another source?
http://www.vintageoutboard.com/collecti … repair-kit

[fisherman6]

Bullie, yes that is the correct kit. Laings Outboards has them too. I believe they are $29.95 but do not include the round gasket which looks to be for the cap. I bought my kits from them and I didn’t get the cap gasket. My cap was still fine though. The diaphragm was falling apart from age and ethanol

The kit for the plastic button tanks can be used as well. You just need to use a leather punch or similar hollow punch to cut the small hole for the aluminium primer button to fit through and fasten. Those kits are often a little but cheaper for whatever reason. Personally I’d recommend the aluminum button kit for your first one just so you can see how it has to work and you know the hole is located properly. From there on you’d probably be fine getting the plastic button kits for any future rebuilds and then you have the option of doing either style tank simply by punching the hole or not.
-Ben

OldJohnnyRude on YouTube

[johnyrude200]

Blank

[johnyrude200]

Recently rehabbed one of these same motors for a ‘youngin’ in his mid 30’s. Grew up going fishing with his grand father fishing using this motor in Missouri. It still had the motor registration stickers on it.

It needed everything, but once done with all the service work (compression numbers after sitting for 20+ years were 87+ both cylinders), it was a 1st pull starter with NO choke (throttle advanced to near full, but a 1/2" spark with a 100% new ignition system less the mag plate). Had to do the usual full choke for a second or two to keep her running until leveled out, but then no more.

I will say that I am quite thankful the springs in the manual starter were all still pliable and working properly. Other than the hassle of pulling a powerhead to change a water pump, I really hate fixing these manual starters because those springs have to be just right.

Pretty sure Missouri has no salt water bodies 🙂

PS – was a nice original, but NOT as nice cosmetically as yours. All there in near original state mechanically. Someone paid to replace 1 coil but other than that original.

[bullie]

I drove to SE Missouri to get this one. No stickers on it though. I don’t know what year Missouri started requiring motor titling/registration but I guess it is possible that this motor hasn’t been run in a very long time considering the original coils and no stickers.

When I was cleaning the carb I wondered if someone had installed a carb kit, at some point in the past, in an effort to get it running as it was in clean except for a little oil in the glass bowl. No solids or gunk anywhere in it. I thought that was unusual on one that may have been sitting for a very long time. I guess a lot of people will rebuild a carb but shy away from the ignition system.

[crosbyman]

set of points while you are in there

and check the gearcase for water infiltration

Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂

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