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  • #56494
    Mumbles
    Participant

      That’s probably from using automotive motor oil back in the day. I was going to suggest cleaning it out and the bypass disc if it has one. The small holes in it get clogged with carbon making starting the motor a chore and poor idling. There’s no tell tale on these motors as you might lose the circulating water in the system if air can get in. It would be the same as a loose water tube connection. If you want to test the motor on a stand, you can undo the pipe plug under the cylinder and install an adapter for a garden hose. There’s no impellers in these motors to worry about!


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      #56509
      bsplit
      Participant

        If it ain’t broke……you know the rest….

        #56606
        labrador-guy
        Participant

          US Member

          Guys, what color would this 1941 KD15 be? It is seamist green now and as I am cleaning parts, I think I am seeing silver underneath the green.

          dale

          #56607
          garry-in-michigan
          Participant

            Lifetime Member

            The pre-war color was semigloss aluminum. The Seamist green started in 1946 . . . 🙂

            #56608
            labrador-guy
            Participant

              US Member

              Thanks Gary, you’re the best!

              dale

              #56618
              Doug Wilson
              Participant

                US Member - 2 Years

                if its running good may be ok for now, would say keep putting penetrating oil or mixture of atf and acetone eventually it should come off but have heard of flywheels breaking but its rare. took a long time to get the one off of my k50

                Doug

                how is it motors multiply when the garage lights get
                turned off?

                #56637
                labrador-guy
                Participant

                  US Member

                  Carbon build up is really bad on this KD 15. Something to check if working on one of these motors. 8to1 gas oil ratio and 40w oil sure made a mess in this one. I am trying to clean the down tube in the lower unit. I cannot get a wire down it yet. I am soaking it with gumout. Hope it loosens up over night. Probably better cleaners for carbon removal but, I am using what I have.

                  dale


                  Attachments:

                  #56641
                  Tubs
                  Participant
                    quote labrador guy:

                    Yup that is the baby! Mine does not have that kill button. It has two metal tabs that look like they contact the housing when the go lever is moved all the way to the left. What is going on with the exhaust damper? A leaver from the carb controls, opens a metal washer on the underside of the exhaust duct. Maybe exhaust relief? Your motor has a cutout on the muffler. Mine has a bolted on cover. Were these motors racers? Plenty thick oil ratio, maybe trying to seal the crankcase? This motor is a learning experience for me. I made an offer and it followed me home!
                    thanks dale


                    From what I have learned its a Johnson factory item.
                    Don’t know if it was an option you could order or
                    or what determined what motors they would be
                    installed on. So far I haven’t found any factory
                    literature that shows it.

                    A "Boathouse Repair" is one that done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.

                    #56649
                    Mumbles
                    Participant

                      With all of the carbon buildup inside, I’m betting the exhaust cutout was open all the time to keep your motor running!

                      #56653
                      garry-in-michigan
                      Participant

                        Lifetime Member

                        They needed that heavy oil to seal the rotary valve. Carbon buildup in the driveshaft housing was always a problem. Later models had sealing rings on the valve that are also used on later V-4, 6 & 8 models. The racing model had roller bearings on the connecting rod big ends and crankshaft mains. Also high compression two ring forged pistons and open exhaust. Several antique "A" racers made high compression pistons the convert the Army-Navy surplus Johnson 10 horse water pump (which had the roller bearings) into a class"A" racer. . . 😀

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