OMC Power Pack NLA

[raglover]

I have a motor just at the 25 year mark, hope it is ok to ask the experts.

1990 Johnson GT 150 (90 degree cross flow) has a bad power pack. Running on 5, follows pack lead, not coil (all coils brand new too)

Original number CD6L/58
583816
Supercede to 584044

Both are NLA. Local old dealer has tried twice to get one in from network of dealers but both time the wrong pack, think for the looper or some other motor.

Was going to try sea way, but have to call. Even eBay coming up short.

Found a few false ads for the 584044 but pictures clearly show 584043 on the pack.

Any ideas? Hate to lose an otherwise good motor.

[Michael Anfossi]

boats.net seem to have them

[fleetwin]

OK, well your GT150 has the 35 amp alternator, quick start, and SLOW, correct? If so, I think you have the wrong part number for the powerpack. 584044 is the pack for the 6/9 amp alternator models.
The part number for the 35 amp models with quikstart/SLOW is: 583865 and marineengine.com has em in stock.
http://www.marineengine.com/parts/johns … ion+System

These systems changed a lot in those years, and I am assuming your model number is: J150STLES. Perhaps you have the standard model with the pack that is NLA though, but you mentioned it is a 1990 GT150

[dan-in-tn]

The pack number you are listing is NLA, but the pack for a 1990 150GT is not! Part #583865 is available from BRP, Sierra, & CDI. The motor should be model J/E150STLES? The last letter is not important in this discussion. Does your motor only have one Tee shaped pack on the starboard side of the engine? It is possible this could not be a pack problem or is a pack & timer base problem combination! Since this motor has "QuickStart" it has six/twelve sensor coils. It is possible to have a screwy timer base that can take out your pack. I believe CDI makes a manual to test your sensor assembly so you can minimize the risk for you new pack. Keep this in mind before you spend money for a new pack.

Dan in TN

[raglover]

Thank you for the replies. The model number plate is long gone, the Welch plug number looks more like a serial. I have probably made a mistake in the GT designation…..thinking of another motor that is, but this one has no designation.

The pack on the engine is definitely 583816, the last good number according to marine engine is 584044.

Almost positive it is a 1990, original to the boat, white, black band decal with white letters, no cowl louvers. Worst case an 89. It is a VRO model but converted to standard pump.

No idea about fast and SLOW, can get number off plug tomorrow.

I checked boats.net, marine engine, crowleys, local guy (Burns outboard in Rincon, GA), eBay, etc. found a used one on something called 2040-parts.com but it looks well used, original PN…kind of leery. Going to call sea way tomorrow.

[fleetwin]

OK, so your engine has the solid flywheel, not the vented one, correct? Can’t remember if the 1990 standard 150s had quikstart/SLOW, like I said, a lot changed quickly through those years. Listen to Dan if the engine is equipped with quikstart/SLOW, the timer base/packs are delicate electronic parts, oftentimes the pack and sensors have to be replaced together or repeat failures are likely.
Your stbd temp sender will have two leads (white/black and tan) if the engine is equipped with quikstart/SLOW.
Perhaps CDI has remanufactured packs for your engine.
So, your engine has only one powerpack that looks like this:
http://www.marineengine.com/parts/johns … 150+Models

[raglover]

Yes, the flywheel is solid. There is only one lead from the temp sensors, it is tan, both sides.

Struck out with CDI, they do not make it either. Thanks for note about inner base. My test equipment is limited (no DVA meter) but will search to see if it is still around.

[rmhxruss]

Can Rapair rebuild yours. 800 467 33371

[raglover]

Thanks! Will call tomorrow

[fleetwin]

quote Raglover:

Yes, the flywheel is solid. There is only one lead from the temp sensors, it is tan, both sides.

Struck out with CDI, they do not make it either. Thanks for note about inner base. My test equipment is limited (no DVA meter) but will search to see if it is still around.

OK, well you have the simple ignition system, so our comments about delicate/complex pieces does not apply. That basic timer base is easy to check with ohm meter/PRV. Tell me again how you know the pack is bad…

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