OMC vs HF flywheel puller

Home Forum Ask A Member OMC vs HF flywheel puller

This topic contains 87 replies, has 24 voices, and was last updated by  johnyrude200 2 years, 5 months ago.

Viewing 13 posts - 76 through 88 (of 88 total)

  • wetwillie

    Replies: 91
    Topics: 15
    #41337

    LOL Ben. I stand corrected re: there not being a radius. The shouldered bolt that I snapped was definitely seated against the top as I remember thinking how it went in farther than 7/16".
    I realize that the final decision as to how to proceed is up to me and, in all honesty, I forgot about resorting to the impact gun. I now consider doing so my last card up my sleeve. Thanks for the reminder. I plan to pull that card out this evening and, if the bolts hold, lay into it with the 3lb’er again. I’ll be sure to be wearing safety goggles. 😉
    To be contd.

    fisherman6
    fisherman6
    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 1653
    Topics: 37
    #41342

    Be safe and keep us updated.

    OldJohnnyRude on YouTube


    wetwillie

    Replies: 91
    Topics: 15
    #41358

    Well, I heated the area up so hot this evening that the entire flywheel was hot to the touch. I then kept blasting the flywheel nut with liquid air until the nut was literally frosty. I then used my impact gun to back the puller bolt out before taking a running start at tightening it down. LOL One of the 3 bolts
    holding the puller to the flywheel snapped. 🙁
    I guess I have a trip to Fastenal in my future. I’ll get a set of shoulder screws and/or hardened bolts ASAP and give it another try. I filled the recessed area around the crankshaft flywheel with penetrating oil. Can’t hurt.

    fisherman6
    fisherman6
    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 1653
    Topics: 37
    #41361

    Dang it! That one is definitely stuck on the there. Thanks for the update. If I was going to Fastenal for new screws I’d get both kinds just so I had a backups for future breakages. You probably already had the same idea. 😉
    -Ben

    OldJohnnyRude on YouTube


    vintin
    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 547
    Topics: 16
    #41372
    quote WetWillie:

    Well, I heated the area up so hot this evening that the entire flywheel was hot to the touch. I then kept blasting the flywheel nut with liquid air until the nut was literally frosty. I then used my impact gun to back the puller bolt out before taking a running start at tightening it down. LOL One of the 3 bolts
    holding the puller to the flywheel snapped. 🙁
    I guess I have a trip to Fastenal in my future. I’ll get a set of shoulder screws and/or hardened bolts ASAP and give it another try. I filled the recessed area around the crankshaft flywheel with penetrating oil. Can’t hurt.

    Was the broken bolt Grade 8?

    One of the OEM bolts?

    Above all in your venture it’s important to not damage the crankshaft.

    You can get a replacement flywheel but if you damage that crank you’re in trouble.

    If you have to eventually start weakening the flywheel to get it off I’m sure some on here will have some tips.

    Tubs
    Tubs
    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 1963
    Topics: 113
    #41376

    WetWillie
    Sent you a PM ,
    Check your messages
    at the top of this page.


    wetwillie

    Replies: 91
    Topics: 15
    #41384

    I’m in the same boat as you, Ben, with regard to getting backups of both. I’ll get some hardened washers too, if they’re available.
    I only have 2 OMC (?) bolts left, Dan, having snapped one earlier. The one I broke this evening was a Grade 8 also.
    Concern for damaging the crank has been in the back of my mind since using the HF puller and noticing a slight flaring of the crank end. That was done w/o the nut in place. I lubed the threads with Never-Sieze and ran the bolt on and off a couple of times before leaving it on with a slight gap between it and the flywheel and the underside of the puller bolt.
    I spoke with Kingfisher tonight. He asked if cutting the flywheel off was a feasible alternative. I told him no.
    Thanks.


    wetwillie

    Replies: 91
    Topics: 15
    #41385

    Got it Tubs. Thanks.
    You have mail 😉


    reivertom
    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 584
    Topics: 30
    #41421

    After reading this thread, the only thing I can add is what my Dad would say….. "You’re not holding your mouth right…" :^) It looks like you have yourself a bonafide PITA! Have you tried a heat gun with a ball of foil on the nut and crank for a heat shield? Could you heat up the fly wheel and then cover it and hit the crank nut and shaft with a coolant such as compressed air in a can like you blow out computers with? If it is under pressure from the puller, it might be enough. I know it’s a long shot, but it might work if there is enough temperature difference. So what if you cook your coils at this point?


    wetwillie

    Replies: 91
    Topics: 15
    #41437

    I have not considered the position of my mouth, but HAVE found myself muttering various words. The ones prior to tightening the center bolt to be far different than those expressed afterwards. I would not be surprised if my facial expressions change during each attempt as well.
    As for using a ball of foil for a heat shield. I have not but I really like that idea and will most definitely try that the next time around. As for a heat source, I’ve been using a Bernzomatic propane torch. I have also been using the exact type of coolant as you described. I have had the flywheel hot to the touch and the nut/crank end, literally, frosty white.

    For anyone interested in an update, I ordered a set of Grade 8 shouldered bolts from Fastenal this morning. I also ordered a set of Grade 9 bolts. They are due to arrive on Wed. At which time, I will do everything that has been suggested in the preceding posts including different facial expressions as I torque the sucker down.
    Also, I have done a little research to satisfy my curiosity re: the difference in tensile strength between grade 8 and 9 bolts. I was disappointed to learn that although the grade 9 bolts have higher tensile strength, they are more brittle and do not handle shock loads very well. 🙁
    To be contd.


    vintin
    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 547
    Topics: 16
    #41438

    Get a part number for that flywheel so you know what you’re looking at just in case it comes to that.

    I bet a member here has one.


    wetwillie

    Replies: 91
    Topics: 15
    #41543

    Thought someone might like a status report. I picked up the bolts I’d ordered from Fastenal this afternoon. I thought I’d use the "Big Guns" first by threading in the Grade 9 bolts. I lubed everything up with Never Seize and went so far as to use a vernier caliper to make certain the puller was parallel with the flywheel surface. I added 2′ extensions to the breaker bar to tighten the puller bolt and the shaft that holds the puller. I also wrapped the puller assembly with a towel in case anything let go. I torqued it down until it was difficult to tighten any further even with the 2′ extensions. One of the bolts snapped. 👿
    I replaced the Grade 9 bolts with the Grade 8 shouldered bolts and repeated the above process. I tightened as much as I felt was safe and left it like that.
    Maybe, hopefully, my prayers will be answered and it’ll let go over night.
    To be continued.


    johnyrude200
    US Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 729
    Topics: 164
    #41618

    To frank’s point, if the flywheel doesn’t pop off after you tighten down the center puller bolt to the point where common sense tells you those smaller outer 3 bolts are going to fail, don’t keep going.

    Give the center bolt a whack, I use a small 8lb hammer. The blunt shock wave usually generates enough force to jar the flywheel off the crank taper.

    I’d love to hear Frank elaborate more on his #3 point about ‘RAISING the flywheel.’ I know with the old ruddertwins, the way you remove the flywheel is by having somebody/something hold the flywheel and suspend the motor in mid air, while a 2nd person strikes the flywheel nut (loosened up to allow the release of the flywheel off the crank). There are no puller holes in those flywheels. And on that note – anyone have any info on how many ft-lbs those nuts should be tightened down to? Hope to get my ruddertwin working someday…fresh out of the original shipping crate with all the tags still on it!

Viewing 13 posts - 76 through 88 (of 88 total)

You must be logged in to reply to this topic.