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I’m getting ready to paint…well…repaint my KE4. I purchased a can of dark green paint from Vintage Outboard and painted the tank, recoil and outer band with the paint and was disgusted with the way the tank came out…not the paint itself but my prepwork was very suspect. The bondo I put on several spot showed thru horribly. I sanded the whole tank down…filled many imperfections and skimmed over the bondo spots several times with glazing putty and now have it reprimed with etching primer. I’m not going to pay another 30.00 for a can of the Vintage paint so in cruising thru the club archives I’ve found that the Duplicolor paint is a very close replacement and have talked to a couple of members and they said to use the Duplicolor paint….plus I got 2 cans of green and a can of the cast color for the rest of the exhaust housing and lower unit for the same price I paid for just the 1 can from Vintage. My question is…after spraying the dark green paint should I spray a clearcoat on the tank and wraparound side cover? Wasn’t real happy with the way the surface looked after the first paint job but I prolly didn’t spray it heavy enough to flow better. The recoil actually came out nice but may repaint it if the colors don’t match well. Just want to have the clearcoat ready in case the consensus is to clearcoat it. What say you painters out there??? Also…is it possible that I just need to buff the tank and side cover instead of clearcoating? I’ve never clearcoated anything I’ve painted before but this motor runs so nice I’m trying to do an A1 job on it.
Look at my Mark 5 post I painted with Rust-Oleum Hunter Green and used a hardener for enamel paint. I added some black to darken some.
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Look at my Mark 5 post I painted with Rust-Oleum Hunter Green and used a hardener for enamel paint. I added some black to darken some.
You must have mixed the paint and sprayed with a gun. I bought spray cans…Dupli Color with ceramic …higher heat for engines. Did you buff it or is that the way it came out after spraying? I did spray a 1975 Evinrude 135 with a 1988 silver with a hint of blue hue automotive paint with hardner and it worked out good. Maybe I should rethink my spray cans.
Looks great.
the red choke knob fuel valve and shift button are wrong should be bare aluminum.
the red was late 40’s only. not in the 50’s.
Hi Dave, my motor is a 1949 KE4 and the fuel shutoff knob and the timer handle don’t show any hints of red and the choke knob is a repro just the bare aluminum. Are mine supposed to be painted or just the aluminum? It does have the handle on the recoil.
I finished my KE4 project…except for a couple very minor things to finish. I’m very happy with the way this paint job turned out. I used the Dupli Color for both the green and the cast aluminum and an etching primer for the whole engine. Nice and shiny..no need for clear coat.
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Teaching yourself how to achieve a good finish is a process of understand
the flaws and making adjustments. There is more to it than just applying the
paint. Some people never figure it out while others do rather quickly. I’d say,
by looking at your pictures, you have developing a good understanding of
each step as you have produced an excellent result.
Tubs
A "Boathouse Repair" is one that done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.
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