QD19 running a little hot?

[beerman57]

Would running J6J’s cause it to run a little hot? When I run it on a hose the head was too warm to leave my finger on it for more than a few seconds, and running on the boat, after being up on plane the water seems a little hot – but not when idling. I kind of wonder if there may have been a small lizard in the hose when I hooked it up to my flusher – I need to remember to turn the water on for a few seconds before I hook the hose up to the flusher! Seems to pump plenty of water though.
Also, when cold the motor starts right up, but after running it doesn’t want to start very easily, which makes me think it may be a little hot.

[fleetwin]

Probably just flushette related as you say…You might want to try the J4Js for extended high speed running. Does this engine have a thermostat?

[chris-p]

No the plug type will not affect head temperature like you are thinking. If it is fine on a boat, and pumping water, I would not worry. Perhaps idle it on the boat, and check the temps with an infrared thermometer to ensure there are no hot spots.

Is this the motor that you just did the full rebuild on?

[1946zephyr]

I wouldn’t run those kind of engines on a flush attachment. They don’t work very well. It’s best to use a barrel and fill the water up to about three inches below the transom clamps. As the other two guys have stated. plugs won’t have any bearing on operating temperatures. Performance will have a small change though. J6C’s or J6J’s are the best thing to run in that.

[Doug Wilson]

might check the impeller make sure the key got put in it and blades are turned the correct direction. Also check the rubber grommets on the top and bottom of the water tube. Can also drop the lower unit and make an adapter to connect a hose to the copper line and run water slow and make sure there is flow through the power head.

Doug

how is it motors multiply when the garage lights get
turned off?

[beerman57]

No T-stat, and it is the just rebuilt motor. I didn’t pay that much attention to the lower cowl/midsection, but it was very clean before the P/H went back on. The block and head very clean too. Shouldn’t I be able to touch the head all day long at an idle, even running on a hose? My flusher shoots the water straight in the water pickup above the cav. plate, way more water going in than idling in neutral on the boat or in a barrel. I know to only turn the driveshaft clockwise once the housing is in place on the impeller.

[chris-p]

You should be able to hold your hand on the head for a good 3 count. If water sizzles when splashed on it, she is too hot.

Were the cylinders honed, new rings installed?

[frankr]

You cannot test a water pump on any kind of flushing attachment. While running on pressure from a garden hose, the pump isn’t pumping, it is only letting the hose pressure pass through. If you want a true test of a water pump, the motor has to be in the water at proper depth.

[fleetwin]

OK, your 1958 10hp doesn’t have a thermostat. Most spots on that head run relatively cool, should be able to put you finger in most spots without getting burned/feeling hot. But, again, this is just a subjective measurement. I would pull the gearcase back off I guess, and check for misaligned, crushed grommet/bent water tube, etc.

[beerman57]

Well, with the L/U off and garden hose fitted directly to the water tube, I could leave my hand on the head all day. But that doesn’t really do anything for it seeming to run hot when planed off. Nothing wrong with the pump or impeller. I know not many people run in salt water, but on the upper midsection, right below the pan/lower cowl, it turned the salt spray into a white coating. Next thing to check is transom height, but I’ve run at least 3 other short shaft motors on this boat and haven’t noticed a problem. I don’t think the water tube grommet is the problem, the water tube is firmly in place.

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