?????? Question Johnson QD-16

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This topic contains 37 replies, has 13 voices, and was last updated by Avatar tinkerman 2 weeks, 4 days ago.

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    tinkerman
    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 49
    Topics: 6
    #175820

    Ok over in the projects section I’m attempting to get my 1st antique (vintage) motor going. Seems questions get answered quicker here. Long story short took it out for test run and it started but wasn’t pumping water. Brought it back home tore it back down. (Previously replaced the water pump and cleaned exhaust housing of a squirrel nest) so I pulled the head off and cleaned water jackets. Poured water in jackets with cylinder pointing up and water ran out the exhaust housing. Put new head gasket on today and started it in a barrel ….. not pumping. Took lower unit off left shaft in pump , put a drill motor on it, submerged it and it wasn’t pumping. Took back apart and realized my problem (I thought ) seems there is a very tiny pin that spins the impeller , I didn’t know this beforehand. Seems to me this pin should protrude out of the shaft ALL THE TIME but it will push into the shaft and become flush not letting the impeller turn. I assume this is the way it’s designed and centrifugal force keeps it slung out. Put back together and put drill motor on it and submerged it WAAALAAAA. Pumping great. Put lower unit back on lined everything back up shift linkage connected . Started motor and……. no water ….. what the heck??? All I can figure is all the jostling around lining up shaft and copper tube and the little pin fell back in? Does anyone know what I’m doing wrong??

    bobw
    bobw
    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 500
    Topics: 24
    #175822

    Sounds like you have the wrong impeller pin or a broken pin. It should seat all the way into the shaft and still have a portion sticking out to engage the impeller. Pin should be about 5/16″ total length.

    Bob

    1954 Johnson CD-11
    1956 Johnson RD-18
    1958 Johnson QD-19

    • This reply was modified 3 weeks, 5 days ago by bobw bobw.
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    tinkerman
    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 49
    Topics: 6
    #175825

    Thanks , really appreciate that!

    bobw
    bobw
    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 500
    Topics: 24
    #175826

    OMC part #300771 if you need a replacement.

    Bob

    1954 Johnson CD-11
    1956 Johnson RD-18
    1958 Johnson QD-19

    Avatar
    tinkerman
    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 49
    Topics: 6
    #175827

    Maybe I’ll get this show on the road (water) now ! Thanks for the help guys! I’ll keep you posted

    Avatar
    tinkerman
    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 49
    Topics: 6
    #175910

    Well I went to lowes and they sold a 1/16 brass pin (solid not plated) about 4″ long and the diameter was a perfect fit for the impeller pin that goes in the driveshaft. Cut it down to correct length and put everything back together and it’s finally chugging water out the exhaust and not overheating. I rebuilt the carb before all this and it will start and run at high idle but not at low idle yet. With the cooling problem solved at least I can tinker with it now. Thanks for the help.

    frankr
    frankr
    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 4154
    Topics: 43
    #175916

    Let’s hope that brass pin doesn’t shear off. It should be stainless steel. 1/8″ diameter if I remember right.

    Avatar
    crosbyman
    Canada Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 1189
    Topics: 158
    #175918

    no need to buy a whole SS rod…. cut a 1/8 S.S. bolt to size

    Avatar
    tinkerman
    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 49
    Topics: 6
    #175921

    Maybe it was 1/8″ , it was a perfect fit. Just glad it’s pumping water right now. NOW……. next question it starts fine but will not idle. It’s smoking like crazy, burn your eyes type smoke. Mixed fuel at 24:1. I’m wondering about the throttle cam adjustment. When the cam follower is lined up with the mark on the brass cam the throttle is NOT opening yet. It’s probably 1/2″ past the mark before the throttle moves. If anyone has the service manual adjustment procedure, or knows if it’s on the site somewhere I’d appreciate it. I’ve adjusted the hi/low idle to recommended initial settings. FYI I can manually open throttle and it seems like it smooths out a lot. I know I’m rambling but any help is appreciated

    phil
    phil
    US Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 80
    Topics: 12
    #175922

    You can only really adjust idle after you’ve found the best setting for the high speed needle at wide open throttle.

    http://www.omc-boats.org
    http://www.aerocraft-boats.org

    lindy46
    lindy46

    Replies: 264
    Topics: 21
    #176010

    Maybe it was 1/8″ , it was a perfect fit. Just glad it’s pumping water right now. NOW……. next question it starts fine but will not idle. It’s smoking like crazy, burn your eyes type smoke. Mixed fuel at 24:1. I’m wondering about the throttle cam adjustment. When the cam follower is lined up with the mark on the brass cam the throttle is NOT opening yet. It’s probably 1/2″ past the mark before the throttle moves. If anyone has the service manual adjustment procedure, or knows if it’s on the site somewhere I’d appreciate it. I’ve adjusted the hi/low idle to recommended initial settings. FYI I can manually open throttle and it seems like it smooths out a lot. I know I’m rambling but any help is appreciated

    Loosen the bolts on the underside of the cam and adjust until throttle butterfly just starts to open when the follower hits the mark on the cam.

    Avatar
    tinkerman
    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 49
    Topics: 6
    #176017

    Ok I’ve laid the Johnson to the side for right now, before I get aggravated and lose interest all together. In earlier posts I’d mentioned that I have 8 or 9 engines total. (A mariner 30hp on my boat now , that runs perfect) anyway it seems every compression check I do is 50 lbs (give or take a few) I have a 5 hp Scott Atwater that I thought I’d look at. Out of all the ones that have read “low compression- 50 lbs, this one is the worst at about 30lbs top and bottom. But when I pulled this one before checking I assumed it was gonna be low , not a lot of resistance at all — noticeable. So I decided for the experience I’d start complete disassembly . There are no noticeable grooves in the cylinder wall or on piston . Doesn’t appear to have standard reed valves that I can see. The opposite side from reed valve (combustion chamber? Is really dirty /oily. Any way maybe new rings would restore compression on this one?? I’m trying to enclose some pics . I really really wanna get one of these engines actually usable type running in order to make this hobby enjoyable lol

    • This reply was modified 3 weeks, 2 days ago by Mumbles Mumbles.
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    frankr
    frankr
    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 4154
    Topics: 43
    #176021

    I really don’t see anything wrong with those pictures. Or is it just me?

    Avatar
    tinkerman
    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 49
    Topics: 6
    #176022

    I thought the reed was a metal plate with a “flap” like to allow air in during combustion. I’m assuming the aluminum piece in 2nd pic is a different style? And the first pic… is it normal for the oil/grease to build up in this area? Without knowing and checking the measurement of the cylinder I don’t know if the low compression is due to that or worn rings or combination of both. Due to oversized pistons being non existant I’m assuming the only way to get the compression up would be to replace the rings. Again not wanting or needing a “like new” engine just one I can put on my boat and putt around in. As I stated when I pull the rope it’s obvious that the compression is low. Im sure compression has to be “reasonable” for the engine to start and run

    Avatar
    tinkerman
    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 49
    Topics: 6
    #176023

    I thought the reed was a metal plate with a “flap” like to allow air in during combustion. I’m assuming the aluminum piece in 2nd pic is a different style? And the first pic… is it normal for the oil/grease to build up in this area? Without knowing and checking the measurement of the cylinder I don’t know if the low compression is due to that or worn rings or combination of both. Due to oversized pistons being non existant I’m assuming the only way to get the compression up would be to replace the rings. Again not wanting or needing a “like new” engine just one I can put on my boat and putt around in. As I stated when I pull the rope it’s obvious that the compression is low. Im sure compression has to be “reasonable” for the engine to start and run

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