Home › Forum › Ask A Member › Random questions about my 1958 Johnson RDS 20
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December 2, 2024 at 9:19 am #292360
Here is s video of startup. I think it’s running really nice and starts and runs on low throttle. https://youtu.be/uWqnisBoKCU
I should replace the fuel lines. They look like 1/4″ ID. I’m assuming something like this would be fine? https://www.amazon.com/Inch-Fuel-Line-Hose-High-Pressure/dp/B0D97XV2V7/ref=sr_1_4?crid=14IB9T9J5W8Q6&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.LutG3w8IjmmSmQc4aHFALGBv8-CQ0p1qOROC8DbGVFUSVtR4ePU9C3c8dLYidAYO4YiONTPL_cOIu3w6v_wmwH3WKCZ5OwTBpPZ94y2eIEMKNsG06SOxe3Dm7P5mYlt2hdJHxDN9FGKUzV3ObP8SZMohFNLx_UOEzBTgVRasAWptWyJ2Mnd8cKOaK3M6-WXyi3cbuYcjRForqVkClb3XrQPfJeMJPOnEKmRiw3mMa6U.VksLHs4gHAKtGibS7wow_gac6KUUVPspyZpeeCDsnUI&dib_tag=se&keywords=1%2F4%2Bid%2Bmarine%2Bfuel%2Bline&qid=1733148952&sprefix=marine%2B1%2F4%2BID%2Caps%2C172&sr=8-4&th=1
December 2, 2024 at 1:04 pm #292364Automotive fuel line like you have found, with the proper inside diameter, can be used inside the motor, but should not be used for the line from motor to tank, because it kinks easily when wound up on the tank; and it degrades with exposure to sunlight, and can be rubbing off black stuff on your hands in a couple years. For the line to the tank, best to get an OEM line that comes with connectors and primer bulb. They are still available. There are after market lines, but quality is not there. You cold have poorly fitting connectors and an inner layer that collapses with time, blocking fuel flow. OEM lines for the tank cost a bit more than aftermarket, but are worth the extra $$. Beware that on Amazon and some other sites, there are fuel lines called “Johnson fuel lines” or a similar name that are not factory OMC lines, instead are poor quality imports from a company in China that calls itself “Johnson” . Link below to a good OEM tank to motor fuel line. I bought two of these a couple months ago from this place: https://leadersrpmshop.com/johnson-evinrude-omc-new-oem-5-16-fuel-gas-line-8ft-hose-primer-bulb-5008609/
Dave
December 2, 2024 at 2:01 pm #292367Thanks Dave, I am talking about the lines under the hood – they crack easy. I’ll order that 1/4″ ID from Aamazon and go from there.
December 2, 2024 at 2:09 pm #292368I finally solved the fuel drip problem. It ended up being the drain screw, I had to add teflon tape.
It’s actually to the point I can start thinking about asthetics. I was thinking of re-painting the hood but I think it will look nice once it is cleaned up. This motor will be used regularly so no reason to make it show room new. I will probably try to clean up, do some sanding, then paint all the lower components.
December 2, 2024 at 8:05 pm #292372small touch up paint should hide a few scratches (Dollar stores have racksof fingernail polish in multiple colors that may match…
a few coats for car wax and you will be the envy of the dock
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December 10, 2024 at 10:01 am #292537I did run into another issue, a previous gear case repair had been done on this and it looked fine but when i pressurized the case, air was coming out tiny pin-holes you can’t even see. I am going to clean it and apply marine epoxy. I did have a couple questions though.
I will be running accessories – radio, gps speedo, led lights. probably 100 watts at the most at once. Should I get a deep cycle battery? I don’t think starting a 35 hp would need much cranking amps. I will be adding a solar panel for trickle charging.
The prop shaft and prop hub are keyed but I do not have a key. The parts diagram does not show one either. I assume it’s ok to run without one? The pin is sufficient?
I ended up painting the Javelin gold and touching up the white.
December 10, 2024 at 10:31 am #292539tiny pin-holes ?? sounds bad maybe you should take the GC apart look-see inside maybe try a epoxy reseal from the inside surfaces where it leaks. ?? repressurize when doe to check ( change seals while at it ) good winter project if you have winters
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December 10, 2024 at 11:19 am #292540Thanks yes I had this apart already and can see the repars when I went through to replace the seals. It looked ok to me when I had it apart.
December 10, 2024 at 11:36 am #292543sadly hopefully wrongly I see cracks above the pivot pit and elswhere .. got a feeling this one was frozen up at one time.
inside does not look good either imho .
try a fuel wash out to get rid of any oil…and try to seal all the cracks with crazy glue and resurface the inside with JB weld or something.
One solution is replenish with new oil every 2-3 months or so. or find a used GC
good luck with repairs.
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December 10, 2024 at 8:43 pm #292546Should I get a deep cycle battery? I don’t think starting a 35 hp would need much cranking amps. I will be adding a solar panel for trickle charging. The prop shaft and prop hub are keyed but I do not have a key.
You are right – it doesn’t take much battery capacity to start it if it is properly tuned up and the choke is used when the motor is cold. What used to be a somewhat “Standard” car battery , like a group 24, wills start it dozens of times if no other accessories are used. There was a dealer-added option of a generator, but those were hardly ever added. Terminal adapters that give you threaded studs and wing nuts for attaching cables are very available if you use a car battery, which is often cheaper than a marine battery. If you run 100 watts of accessories, you are looking at a 8 to 9 Amp drain. Check Amp-Hour ratings on batteries and buy one that does the job for you between charging. Example: A 100 Amp-hour battery, will supply 8 Amps for 100/8 = 12.5 hours. Most of the big Deep Cycle marine batteries are 100 Amp-hours, and car batteries are less. If your prop-shaft is “keyed” as you said, it has been custom-modified, and I would need a modified prop – I’ve never heard of that! The prop-shaft should have a hole (approx 1/4 inch) near the end for a shear pin, or, on parts lists with HP that big, it is often called a Drive Pin, and the prop will likewise have a hole near the outer end to mate with the pin. The drive pin is part #43 at the link below, and is still available. At the link, look also at the other parts needed at the end of the prop (parts 44, 45 and 56) note part #45 is just a big cotter pin. https://www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1958&hp=35&model=RDS-20&manufacturer=Johnson§ion=GEAR+CASE+GROUP
Dave
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