Home Forum Ask A Member Random questions about my 1958 Johnson RDS 20

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  • #292360
    TJ Brandon
    Participant

      US Member
      #292364
      outbdnut2
      Participant

        US Member

        Automotive fuel line like you have found, with the proper inside diameter, can be used inside the motor, but should not be used for the line from motor to tank, because it kinks easily when wound up on the tank; and it degrades with exposure to sunlight, and can be rubbing off black stuff on your hands in a couple years.   For the line to the tank, best to get an OEM line that comes with connectors and primer bulb.  They are still available.  There are after market lines, but quality is not  there.  You cold have poorly fitting connectors and an inner layer that collapses with time, blocking fuel flow.  OEM lines for the tank cost a bit more than aftermarket, but are worth the extra $$.   Beware that on Amazon and some other sites, there are fuel lines called “Johnson fuel lines” or a similar name that are not factory OMC lines, instead are poor quality imports from a company in China that calls itself “Johnson” .   Link below to a good OEM tank to motor fuel line.  I bought two of these a couple months ago from this place:  https://leadersrpmshop.com/johnson-evinrude-omc-new-oem-5-16-fuel-gas-line-8ft-hose-primer-bulb-5008609/

        Dave

        #292367
        TJ Brandon
        Participant

          US Member

          Thanks Dave, I am talking about the lines under the hood – they crack easy. I’ll order that 1/4″ ID from Aamazon and go from there.

          #292368
          TJ Brandon
          Participant

            US Member

            I finally solved the fuel drip problem. It ended up being the drain screw, I had to add teflon tape.

            It’s actually to the point I can start thinking about asthetics. I was thinking of re-painting the hood but I think it will look nice once it is cleaned up. This motor will be used regularly so no reason to make it show room new. I will probably try to clean up, do some sanding, then paint all the lower components.

            #292372
            crosbyman
            Participant

              Canada Member - 2 Years

              small touch up paint  should hide a few scratches (Dollar stores have  racksof fingernail polish in multiple colors that may match…

              a few coats for car wax  and you will be  the envy of the  dock

              Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂

              #292537
              TJ Brandon
              Participant

                US Member

                I did run into another issue, a previous gear case repair had been done on this and it looked fine but when i pressurized the case, air was coming out tiny pin-holes you can’t even see. I am going to clean it and apply marine epoxy. I did have a couple questions though.

                I will be running accessories – radio, gps speedo, led lights. probably 100 watts at the most at once. Should I get a deep cycle battery? I don’t think starting a 35 hp would need much cranking amps. I will be adding a solar panel for trickle charging.

                The prop shaft and prop hub are keyed but I do not have a key. The parts diagram does not show one either. I assume it’s ok to run without one? The pin is sufficient?

                I ended up painting the Javelin gold and touching up the white.

                #292539
                crosbyman
                Participant

                  Canada Member - 2 Years

                  tiny pin-holes ??   sounds  bad maybe you should take the GC apart  look-see inside      maybe  try a epoxy reseal  from the inside surfaces where it leaks. ??  repressurize   when doe to check  ( change seals while at it )   good winter project if you have winters

                  Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂

                  #292540
                  TJ Brandon
                  Participant

                    US Member

                    Thanks yes I had this apart already and can see the repars when I went through to replace the seals. It looked ok to me when I had it apart.

                    #292543
                    crosbyman
                    Participant

                      Canada Member - 2 Years

                      sadly hopefully wrongly     I see cracks  above the pivot pit and elswhere .. got a feeling this one  was frozen up at one time.

                       

                      inside does not look good either  imho  .

                       

                      try  a fuel wash out  to get rid of any oil…and try to seal all the cracks  with crazy glue  and   resurface the inside  with  JB weld or something.

                      One solution is  replenish  with new  oil  every 2-3 months or so.    or find a used GC

                      good luck with repairs.

                      Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂

                      #292546
                      outbdnut2
                      Participant

                        US Member

                        Should I get a deep cycle battery? I don’t think starting a 35 hp would need much cranking amps. I will be adding a solar panel for trickle charging. The prop shaft and prop hub are keyed but I do not have a key.

                        You are right – it doesn’t take much battery capacity to start it if it is properly tuned up and the choke is used when the motor is cold.  What used to be a somewhat “Standard” car battery , like a group 24, wills start it dozens of times if no other accessories are used.  There was a dealer-added option of a generator, but those were hardly ever added.   Terminal adapters that give you threaded studs and wing nuts for attaching cables are very available if you use a car battery, which is often cheaper than a marine battery.  If you run 100 watts of accessories, you are looking at a 8 to 9 Amp drain.  Check Amp-Hour ratings on batteries and buy one that does the job for you between charging.  Example:  A 100 Amp-hour battery, will supply 8 Amps for 100/8 = 12.5 hours.  Most of the big Deep Cycle marine batteries are 100 Amp-hours, and car batteries are less.  If your prop-shaft is “keyed” as you said, it has been custom-modified, and I would need a modified prop – I’ve never heard of that!  The prop-shaft should have a hole (approx 1/4 inch) near the end for a shear pin, or, on parts lists with HP that big, it is often called a Drive Pin, and the prop will likewise have a hole near the outer end to mate with the pin.  The drive pin is part #43 at the link below, and is still available.  At the link, look also at the other parts needed at the end of the prop (parts 44, 45 and 56) note part #45 is just a big cotter pin.  https://www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1958&hp=35&model=RDS-20&manufacturer=Johnson&section=GEAR+CASE+GROUP

                        Dave

                         

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