Ranger coil options?

[billw]

My coil has failed open, on my little 1.1 Evinrude Ranger. I have looked on eBay and placed an ad in our classifieds on this site, but I am coming up empty. I don’t see how, but I have to ask: Has anybody done an OMC coil conversion on a magneto like this one? I also can’t find a primer lever, either, which I find even more surprising.

Long live American manufacturing!

[The Boat House]

I’ve haven’t done one but I have heard others
have used this coil, grounding out the extra
plug wire lead.
Are you sure its bad Bill? This mag is well
known for having the spark return by taking
the points apart and giving them a good cleaning.
Doug Penn will have that primer lever.
Do you have the spring?
https://www.oldoutboard.com/
Tubs
.

[george-emmanuel]

That coil is also available in a single terminal version for the same price. Dimensions are the same.

George

[The Boat House]

george-emmanuel wrote:

That coil is also available in a single terminal version for the same price. Dimensions are the same.

George

Single lead coils are available.
As the cost is over twice what the 2 lead coil
is I didn’t provide the source.
If you have a source for the single lead coil
for that price it would be helpful if you would
reveal it.
Tubs

[billw]

Being a Merc guy at heart, I already have a bunch of those coils in the basement. So how would you attach it to the existing lamination? Somehow use it in it’s original shape or cut out the center and attach it Bendix style, with clips?

I took my points all apart and cleaned them thoroughly. Then I reassembled and tested them with a meter. When open, the circuit is OL as it should be. When closed, it is basically the same resistance as my meter leads themselves, about 0.02. When I ohm-test the secondary part of my coil, it is open. My condenser tests like brand new on my Stevens magneto analyzer.

I will try Doug Penn for the arm. I know of him, but have never had to use his services, until now, I guess. You’re right, I forgot about the spring, which I would also need. Thanks for the good suggestion!

Long live American manufacturing!

[The Boat House]

I put one of these mercury coils in a 1/2 hp Cub.
Cut off all but 2 of the lams and elongated the holes
to fit. For your motor you only need to leave 1. Had
to file off some of the coil insulation to get it under
the flywheel. I don’t know if that will be necessary on
your motor as the flywheel is bigger.
Tubs
.

[billw]

Thanks very much for all the great pictures and advice! I’m excited that there may be life for this little engine, after all. I was very surprised and pleased to find out that the original coil was not wound around one, big, U-shaped lamination. I hadn’t noticed that the original was built to install the same way you are suggesting to install the Bendix one. It looks like you cut off your lamination ends using hand tools? That’s all I have available to me, so I will have to take my time and be very careful. I am sure the accuracy and squareness off the cuts affects the strength of the spark. Sorry, but one more question: Do you solder your spark plug and secondary ground wires onto those sphere-shaped lobes, or find some way to mechanically hold them?

Long live American manufacturing!

[The Boat House]

It try to provide solutions that anyone can do.
The only “machinery” I have is a table top
drill press.
I normally just bend the plug wire over and
solder it on. I don’t twist the wire on before
soldering. It makes it difficult to remove the
plug wire if you need to, increasing the
chances of possibly damaging the coil.
I used a hack saw to cut off the lamination’s.
Cut them off as close as possible to the coil to
avoid any hand filing to make the coil fit.
The lamination you leave will determine how
high the coil sits. When you get to the
lamination you want to keep, cut part way
through the one above it and then pry it off.
(top picture)
Then you wont cut into the lam you’re keeping.
While I’m more partial to the Pal and the Scout
I have had a couple Rangers. Is yours a pre.
WW-II motor with the magnets in the flywheel,
or post war with a magnet rotor on the crankshaft?
Tubs

[billw]

Mine is a 1940, with magnets in the flywheel. I have a Pal, also but the tank is full of holes and it has a broken skeg. That discourages me doing much of anything with it. It, too, appears to have an open coil secondary, although I haven’t tried to get spark out of it, at all. It also feels low on compression. A real honey for the money. I was hoping I could use parts from it to save my second Sea King Midget Single, that has a bad (rust-pitted) cylinder and somehow, a bent crank. However, there doesn’t seem to be much, if any, compatibility between the two. Maybe the crank itself, but I haven’t taken it apart, yet.

As for connecting the coil wire, these two-output, Bendix-style coils just have what appear to be small, half-spheres of maybe solder, maybe not, instead of the usual small ring that you could loop the stripped end of a spark plug wire through. No way to loop anything through them.

Long live American manufacturing!

[The Boat House]

Broken skeg is common. Don’t want to rest the motor on
the skeg. Lay it down if you don’t have a place to hang it.
If it has a little bend in it – leave it. Trying to straighten it
can result in it snapping off.
There are a few parts that cross over from the Midget
to the Evinrude’s but not as many as one might think.
There are pre & post war Sea King Midgets as well so you
can have either magneto. The magneto with the rotor
magnet has 2 keys in the crankshaft, 1 for the rotor.
They have a different dia. and taper as well.
My experience with the Mercury coils is really limited
but the few I had, did have a hole for the wire.
Tubs
.

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