Recommended Updates For 1992 Evinrude 60 HP

[mercuryspecialist]

Hi,

I found the thread "70 hp idling characteristics" especially interesting because I have been asked to consult on a 1992 Evinrude 60 hp (E60TLENE) which was found with 0 psi for the compression reading for number one cylinder, and 120 psi for number two and three cylinders. It was reportedly found upon disassembly that the number one cylinder was scored, and the piston melted with a hole through between the piston pin area and bottom ring (exhaust side). Otherwise, reportedly, the balance is very nice. Might I ask what updates might be called for to best utilize with a rebuild? I did see mention of the recommended mod to the cylinder port area, .002" high speed jet, and 0432955 water pump kit. Assuming that these are all recommended with the 60 hp. also, is there a source for the service bulletin(s), part number of a possible jet kit, or any additional recommended update part numbers? By the way, this outboard is powering a reported Alumacraft 20 foot pontoon that it was likely original to.

Thank You In Advance,
Joe

[dan-in-tn]

Joe it can be a little difficult for me to remember every facet of the service bulletin. I have not seen a copy for about 10 years now. Not sure I can get my hands on a copy now. I can tell you what I remember.
1. The exhaust bridge in the exhaust port should be relieved so it doesn’t wear on the rings. This is done by the machine shop doing the re-bore. Just the bridge is reduced & rounded after boring, but before honing!
2. Carburetor H.S, jets were increased in size .002 from stock. This will depend on model and date of production. You can look up the information (MarineEngine.com)to compare what is in the engine now. OMC had two calibration per year. (Early & late production).
3. Top end timing was reduced two degrees. Timing should be checked at 4000 RPMs or above.
4. The over board elbow found on the exhaust cover should be relocated to the top of the block. This ensures the block is full of water before the over board indicator is operational.
5. The water pump should be replaced with kit #432955 which includes new parts to ensure proper temps at idle and blowoff cooling.
(Your 1992 60hp has a different thermostat than the ’93 model previously discussed, but the vernitherm is still located inside the thermostat. It can be removed from the thermostat assy. (Unscrew assembly) and tweaked to be sure it is seating on its seat for proper temps at idle.)
6. The bulletin talks about a new exhaust side cover that is thicker allowing more cooling water between the block & cover, but it is NLA. Some of the ribbing could be removed, but do not make the cover flexible or it will leak?
7. Since this is a pontoon boat aeration of the water is always a problem. Possible overheats can occur at anytime for any length of time? Some are just threshold over heats that may not sound the horn. Water pressure gauge may help, but you have to monitor the gauge!
8. It is important the this engine turn the RPMs it was designed to turn. Prop the engine for WOT even though it will rarely spend time there? Lugging the engine will cause over loading and over heating.
Since the engine is almost 25 yrs old it would seem something has been done right with the engine for it to last this long. Unless it appears to be a low hour engine. To the best of my memory these were the things addressed in the bulletin. Maybe fleetwin or Pappy will chime in if they remember anything else. Hope that helps!
I will be happy to clarify any questions. I have a machine shop guy who has done many of these mods.

Dan in TN

[fleetwin]

OK, well I guess you will first have to determine if the block is salvageable. Then you will need to examine the other pistons/cylinders very closely to determine their condition. These loop scavenged engines have their advantages, but are very intolerant to improper/worn piston fit in the cylinders…A couple thousandths off will probably leave you will an engine that is hard starting and idles poorly, even though compression numbers might seem excellent. So, if the block is salvageable, you will next have to look at the economics of the repair. In the long run, will it be more cost effective to by a rebuilt powerhead from one of the reputable places, or attempt to do the work in house. I don’t know if there is anyway of changing port styles on these powerheads. From what you described, it sounds like the rest of the engine is in very nice condition…But, don’t just assume this, I would go ahead and drain the gear lube to ensure their are no issues there, check the power trim to make sure it is functioning properly and not leaking down. Look over the rest of the engine to ensure there are no bent/damaged/cracked castings anywhere. The oil injection system should be completely inspected and serviced as well.
The water pump kit you mention will have all the things needed for the cooling telltale update, along with improved thermostat parts, and complete instructions for doing that job. I don’t think the "jet kits" are available anymore to purchase, but you can simply examine your high speed jets while rebuilding the carbs, then purchase high speed jets .002" larger. The OMC service manuals give part numbers for all the various jets.
It is possible that this update has already been done on your engine, usually there was a little sticker applied somewhere. Nonetheless, you can compare your high speed jets with what was originally prescribed in the parts book to determine if the update has already been done. Pontoon use is a pretty severe application for these engines. Lugging engines, messed up water supplies to the gearcase, along with water ingestion from crazy rooster tails, can kill outboards quickly. So, engine performance, cooling supply, and the correct style/pitch prop are a must. The owner should be educated on how to run the boat without beating the tar out of the outboard. This engine should turn up a minimum of 5500RPM at WOT, although its optimal throttle setting is probably about 2/3 throttle.
Dan raises a good point about having the proper machine shop do the boring work, this is not something that should be entrusted to shops that haven’t had experience with these engines.

[dan-in-tn]

All of the points fleetwin (Don) brings up are important. Of course on a 25yr old motor I wouldn’t consider using any of the pistons over again. With the ports having to be modified it would be necessary to bore all cylinders! If any cylinder (#1) was beyond repair it is easily sleeved with a completely new liner. Very easy to do on this model. As far as buying a new/rebuilt powerhead, not many service providers know about these modifications (port mods). (They were not published by OMC to servicing dealers as most did not do that type of machine work).
I also did a little more research into the side exhaust cover. Original #329834 is cast into the cover. The new cover is #343964. I haven’t found one of those to look at, but maybe the number is cast on it too. The late cover is available, but $81.63 ME.
The last 56 cu. in. motor of this type was built by OMC as a 2001 model. It was discontinued by BRP. Emmisions we’re going to finish it off anyway. The 4 stroke Suzuki took its place for a short time.

Dan in TN

[mercuryspecialist]

Thank you Dan and Don for the details and recommendations! I am told that the engine appears to be relatively low hours (cylinders #2 & #3 are said to still well show the bore cross hatching), with no lower unit or other issues noted (freshwater only operation). As is pointed-out, 56 cubic inches is somewhat small for a pontoon application (with the assumed smaller diameter gear case), but hopefully the present propeller, or a replacement can be fitted to make the best of the situation. A pleasant Labor Day gentlemen, and to all as well.

Best Regards,
Joe

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