reed valves for old Elgin

[froggy]

I am having a difficult time finding reed valves for my old 1 1/2hp Elgin.   I was cutting them from shim stock, but the first I made are too firm.  Looks like I will have to go to .004 to get the right size.  Anyone have any experience with DIY reed valves.  I am going to use feeler gauge for the next set, but am not sure if they will hold up.  If anyone has made the reed valves can you let me know what you used and how well it worked.  Any other suggestions would also be appreciated.  I know it might sound crazy to spend a lot of time on a little old Elgin, but I will get satisfaction from seeing it running again.

[Buccaneer]

I never done it, but I have thought about using feeler gauges for reeds.
Only problem, you’d need more than one the same thickness!

Prepare to be boarded!

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froggy

[joecb]

I have never made new reeds, but I don’t see why feeler stock of the proper thickness shouldn’t work. Another option may be to salvage reeds from another motor. Maybe having to cut to size. Of course the issue with DIY will be to ensure absolute flatness of the final product.

Feeler gage stock is available in long lengths, like 12 inch, I believe.

Joe B

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froggy

[davidk]

I agree with Joe about the suggestion of salvaging reeds from a parts motor.  What model Elgin are you working on?

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froggy

[green-thumbs]

A friend in the hobby duplicated a reed valve for a 1940 Mercury K4 using shim stock. He was able to source FLAT shim stock in proper gauge. It may be easier to use a reed from another brand as a starting point depending upon size and shape of reed needed for
your Elgin, The size and shape of
1940 Mercury reeds made shim stock
a better option. ‘
I will suggest the responsible party to write and article for
the Outboarder (with photos)
I do not know his technique for
shaping and drilling hardened
spring steell shim stock,
I owe a BIG THANK YOU for the
solution to a toughie,
Louis

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froggy

[froggy]

Thanks for all the replies.  Turns out this is a 1 1/4 hp model 571.58301.  I found a picture of another engines reed valves. I found this in LeeRoys Ramblings along with a description of the plate which is “The reed valve plate are directly behind the carb and held on by the carb/manifold bolts.  The fuel flow is through four .177″ round holes that are counter bored /tapered from .300″  in the front of the plate.”  Amazing what you can find if you do enough searching.  The reed valves (using a Lee Mic) measure .039 so I am going to try a .004 feeler gauge cut to size.  The old valves are too rusty to work so have to be replaced.  I tried .01 material but cut to size (approx 5/16 x 1 1/16) they were too stiff.  I am going to cut the .004 feeler gauge with a Dremel using a cutting oil to keep it as cool as possible.  On  the first set I cut the screw hole by using a fine pointed grindstone to start and then finishing with a sharp drill.  Worked fine on the thicker material, but we will let you know if it works on the thinner feeler gauge.

[Buccaneer]

You might want to sandwich and clamp tight, the feeler gauge between scrap wood
or aluminum, etc., on each side before you drill the hole in the feeler gauge.

Prepare to be boarded!

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froggy

[joecb]

Froggy, I think that you have the right process in mind.  Dremel with the thin cut-off wheel should work fine, just go slow and let heat dissipate. I would not try using a drill for the hole, your idea of a small grind stone on the Dremel will work OK, just keep opening  the hole little by little. Small diamond point on the Dremel should do the job as well.

Report back on your progress & success

Joe B

 

Joe B

[Author]

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