February 14, 2020 at 3:12 pm #194846
I have one of these motors that I intend to set up with dual controls as a kicker motor. I have been looking through the service books but cannot find the wiring diagram for the older style remote start/kill switch wiring that has a choke solenoid, NOT the ‘newer’ primer solenoid. The motor I have is a 1984 model.
Does anyone have one or be willing to explain which wires are connected to where. I’d like to set it up with a common key switch that has the 6 terminals used on all the OMC outboards.
The wiring harness coming from the engine has the following, but some of which I am not quite sure what they go to (my initial thoughts below):
1. Thick red wire with larger eye-ring coming from neutral start switch on motor – ???
2. purple/white – power to the choke selenoid – key switch C
3. Single amphenol plug black/yellow wire – to kill switch – key switch M terminal?
4. Thinner black wire – grounded to block – to NEG battery terminal
5. Thinner red wire with small eye-ring – to battery + terminal from alternator
6. Green wire – ???
What has me itching my head is where is the power to the engine supposed to come from as there are no battery cables attached to the motor; I see a black ground and red lead going to the starter from the neutral start switch (on the SB side of the powerhead), but no battery leads from the motor. I suppose this is because these small starters do not use a solenoid normally, so the power is going through the key switch out to the motor in the same manner (in line switch)?
The green wire is snipped at the motor side too, terminating near the alternator terminal block. Need to figure out what this is supposed to be connected to.
A wiring diagram would be quite helpful!February 14, 2020 at 5:03 pm #194861
OK, well that blue wire is a mystery….I am assuming there is a black plastic junction box that is mounted in the boat somewhere, correct?? If so, the solenoid is inside the black junction box, am I correct? The tiller start engines don’t use a solenoid, but I am thinking there is a solenoid inside that black junction box…You wouldn’t be able to run starter current up to, and back from the key switch….
If this is what you have, then the thick red wire goes to one side of the neutral start switch, like you said, and you have the other wires correct also…..
You mentioned the blue/green wire is snipped at the engine end, but what is it connected to on the engine? Any signs of the blue/green wire at the key switch? Post some pictures of inside the junction box and the key switch connections.. I supposed the blue wire could be used for a tach connection, but not sure….
You won’t find a wiring diagram for this set up in the service manual, because this remote set up was considered an accessory, OMC had separate manuals for accessories back then…February 14, 2020 at 5:46 pm #194866
Unfortunately all I have is the motor. I looked through some parts bins and found another one of these harnesses I had put aside before. The green wire at the motor end had, what appears to be a factory sealant on to terminate the line on it so perhaps it isnt used for anything, possibly a tach lead as you mentioned.
The green wire on the motor I am talking about terminates near the tach/yellow/grey rectifier lead but I see no evidence of it being connected to anything on the motor.
Maybe I can find a kit on ebay with the original instructions. Otherwise Ill just have to wire up a simple push button start, stop, and choke set up. Would like to have a key switch but I guess buttons would still work.
US Member - 1 Year
Topics: 47February 14, 2020 at 6:30 pm #194873
Not that it helps much, but here is the remote start kit so you can see what’s involved
http://www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-accessories/index.php?year=1984&model=Electrical+1984§ion=Remote+Starting+Kit+9.9%2C+15&yid=34144&mid=34145&sid=37095February 14, 2020 at 7:25 pm #194878
Yeah frank, that’s the one all right. I guess a solenoid set up is necessary, so I should probably just copy what a larger motor would following for a wiring configuration.February 15, 2020 at 7:57 am #194917
How do you know the harness you have is the correct one that was supposed to be used? Perhaps someone just “made something up” from an old harness laying around. In any event, it will surely work OK. Find one of those old PTT harness with the large external box and use that box for the solenoid….Seal the blue wire off and don’t worry about it….
Canada Member - 2 Years
Topics: 428February 15, 2020 at 12:58 pm #194957
Here’s the wiring diagram for earlier electric start 9.9/15 horse motors to help give you an idea what is what under the hood. It should apply to your ’84 model to except for the ignition system.February 17, 2020 at 9:39 am #195128
OK, another stray neuron just fired in my brain….That blueish looking wire is probably the negative battery cable! That other ground lead brings ground up to the key switch so the stop circuit will work…. Do you have a picture of the other end of this harness, how long is it? I’m thinking this harness shouldn’t be very long because it ends up in the little junction box, kind of like the older engines that used a junction box.February 17, 2020 at 6:13 pm #195204
The picture I posted is of the solenoid box side of the wiring harness. The other end is still wired to the motor. The green wire (there is no blue wire) is terminated at the motor and not connected to anything, and as I had mentioned earlier I found another one of these harnesses I had removed from another motor with this set up to find that the blue wire, on the motor end, appears to have a factory sealant on it to stop it from being used. Although, it’s possible that was done by someone else then the factory and this is all just a coincidence.
Nonetheless, I don’t think it will be hard to just make a simple key switch set up just like you find on any of the other motors using the big red plug, and I have plenty of those lying around here anyway. If we do ever find the schematics for one of these it would be nice to have it since I do run across these types of 9.9/15hp motor configurations every so often.
- This reply was modified 1 day, 20 hours ago by johnyrude200.
US Member - 1 Year
Topics: 47February 17, 2020 at 7:12 pm #195210
I don’t know if this makes it any clearer or not. The original setup ran a hot wire from the battery to the starter only interrupted by the neutral switch (it used as doorbell switch to START). I would think you’d need to insert a solenoid somewhere along the way if you want to run that function back to your key setup. The kill switch wouldn’t be a problem.
US Member - 1 Year
Topics: 47February 18, 2020 at 11:20 am #195278
Yes, the tiller electric/standard set up does not use a solenoid. The positive cables are heavy enough, and short enough to handle the draw of the starter motor….
This is not the case for a remote electric set up though. The length of the hot wire running up to the key switch, then running back to the starter, would be too long to effectively carry the current needed by the starter….The key switch is not designed to handled that current load either.
The remote electric kits for these engines included a junction box with a solenoid, similar to what the older large engines used. This set up could be eliminated if there was some place to put a solenoid on these engines, but we know there is no room to spare on these engines. In later years prior to 1993, there was a specific remote electric engine built that did not use a junction box…There was no recoil starter on these engines, and the solenoid was mounted where the recoil used to be…
OK, so the picture shows the junction box end of the engine wiring harness. So, that black wire can be the battery negative cable that is fastened to the terminal board in the junction box…Another black cable is run from this terminal to the battery, and a smaller black lead runs from this terminal up to the key switch for the stop circuit. So, it is very possible that the blue/green/whatever color it is lead is just a spare that is not used. Perhaps OMC used some old stock harness from another engine for this kit, and just capped off the unused lead.
In any event, you could convert this to use a red plug set up, but where in the engine would you mount a solenoid? So, I’m guessing you do not have the junction box for this set up, or the boat end of the wiring harness. Do you have any old style PTT boxes that included a solenoid? If so, it might be easiest to just use an old remote electric control box, cut off the big red plug, and hard wire the leads using the terminal board and solenoid in the box. You may want to add the 20 amp fuse to the red lead running up to the key switch from the terminal box….
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