Row Boat Motor Tank Repair

[Buccaneer]

No soda blaster, but I can definitely reduce pressure and hold
the gun further away from the work. I think my supply air
to the gun is set at about 90 psi now, any higher the compressor
lags behind, but it will blow sand at a lot less pressure.

Prepare to be boarded!

[RICHARD A. WHITE]

The lower the pressure the less chance of warping the base metal..

http://www.richardsoutboardtools.com
classicomctools@gmail.com

[bill-loveland]

Looks like you got it apart without distorting anything – good job!

[bobw]

Yes, good job getting it apart with no apparent warpage of the metal. Hopefully, you can get the rust cleaned up and salvage the thing. Like Chris suggested, would be good if you had access to a soda blaster or some fine glass bead.

Bob

1937 Champion D2C Deluxe Lite Twin
1954 Johnson CD-11
1955 Johnson QD-16
1957 Evinrude Fastwin 18
1958 Johnson QD-19
1958 Johnson FD-12
1959 Johnson QD-20

“Every 20 minute job is only a broken bolt away from a 3-day project.”
"Every time you remove a broken or seized bolt an angel gets his wings."

[outbdnut2]

Nice job of taking it apart!

I was just wondering, since the problem is mainly rust, would this be a good candidate for the electrolysis rust removal?
Dave

[Buccaneer]

quote outbdnut2:

Nice job of taking it apart!

I was just wondering, since the problem is mainly rust, would this be a good candidate for the electrolysis rust removal?
Dave

Not sure if a person would end up with a worse case of "Swiss cheese" using electrolysis
vs. sandblasting or not. I sandblasted the inside of the tank today then scrubbed
it the best I could with little wire brushes and more phosphoric acid.
The inside of the cover I didn’t sandblast, as I thought that would be the most
likely to "warp", but rather used a drill with wire wheel and
acid. Hopefully tomorrow I’ll finish up any body work on it, then solder the lid
back on the tank. Guess I’ll just tape all the pin holes and seal it with Red Coat
when it arrives. Hopefully the Red Coat doesn’t cause problems with the paint lifting
off the pin holes.

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Attachments:

Prepare to be boarded!

[dave-bernard]

can you coat it before you put the top on ?????

[bobw]

Sure looks a lot better than when you started! With the Redkote sealer, I think you’ll have a good tank.

Bob

1937 Champion D2C Deluxe Lite Twin
1954 Johnson CD-11
1955 Johnson QD-16
1957 Evinrude Fastwin 18
1958 Johnson QD-19
1958 Johnson FD-12
1959 Johnson QD-20

“Every 20 minute job is only a broken bolt away from a 3-day project.”
"Every time you remove a broken or seized bolt an angel gets his wings."

[bill-loveland]

quote Buccaneer:

quote outbdnut2:

Nice job of taking it apart!

I was just wondering, since the problem is mainly rust, would this be a good candidate for the electrolysis rust removal?
Dave

Not sure if a person would end up with a worse case of “Swiss cheese” using electrolysis
vs. sandblasting or not. I sandblasted the inside of the tank today then scrubbed
it the best I could with little wire brushes and more phosphoric acid.
The inside of the cover I didn’t sandblast, as I thought that would be the most
likely to “warp”, but rather used a drill with wire wheel and
acid. Hopefully tomorrow I’ll finish up any body work on it, then solder the lid
back on the tank. Guess I’ll just tape all the pin holes and seal it with Red Coat
when it arrives. Hopefully the Red Coat doesn’t cause problems with the paint lifting
off the pin holes.

tape the inside

couple coats of primer on the outside

then seal inside

[lyks2tinkr]

Solder the tank together. Slosh with MEK or Acetone to make sure it’s clean and then line the tank.
If you prime 1st then clean you stand a good chance of acetone getting on the primer and messing it up. I have experience in the above 🙂

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