Searching for a 10 hp Johnson or Evinrude

[paulfromyork]

I would really like to have a 10hp for my alum. 12 footer. And a winter project would be nice. Here are two more offerings. Unfortunately, I think they are treasure hunter/profiteers. I just want to end up with a good motor. throttle grip would be nice. Cosmetics, not so much.
https://york.craigslist.org/bpo/5818835291.html
https://harrisburg.craigslist.org/bpo/5837411912.html
both of these are within driving distance.
These are numbers sent on request for Millerstown motor. Mq-12a model number J2673094 serial

[vintin]

Those prices don’t look out of line.

[fleetwin]

Oh boy, you are looking at two 9.5hps on CL….Well, I don’t want to be a downer when it comes to these engines….But, you better inspect them carefully to ensure two things:
make sure there are no broken motor mounts
make sure there are no exhaust leaks under the motor cover
These engines run nicely, but can be a real pain to work on unless you have had experience with them. The 9.5s have a complex mount system, that is subject to failure and requires quite a bit of disassembly to repair. And, these engines are prone to exhaust leaks under the engine cover which cause the engine to choke on its exhaust and not run properly.
Before purchasing, ask the seller to mount the engine on something secure, like a boat transom or heavy duty stand. Now, attempt rocking the powerhead by pushing the flywheel from side to side inside the lower motor cover. I would avoid either of these engines if you detect mount problems.
Look carefully under the engine cover at the foam insulation….Does the insulation appear dark/black instead of its normal tan color? If so, there is probably and exhaust leak. These leaks can be caused by several things, most are not easy to repair. I would avoid the 9.5s if your inspection indicates and exhaust leak.
Needless to say, you want to do all the normal inspections as well, compression, checking gear lube condition…If you buy either one, plan on doing a water pump, ignition, and fuel system inspection/servicing to ensure it is a reliable daily runner.
The old adage about never judging a book by its cover applies as always. Just because the newer 9.5 looks like crap, does not mean it is in bad condition…And, just as important, just because the older white 9.5 looks real nice, doesn’t mean it does not have problems.
The only other thing I would add is that the 9.5s are not near as powerful as the 10hp engines they replace. The seller is asking big bucks for these engines, so I would definitely negotiate way down unless your inspections show the engines to be in great mechanical condition.

[fleetwin]

PS: The seller of the newer engine talks about a crack somewhere….Could mean a lot of work if one of the lower motor covers is cracked….

[PugetSoundBoater]

These motors are a good price, but are they a good motor??? Please take fleetwin’s comments seriously,they are hard to work on, and are prone for exhaust leaks, hard to fix. Then again some guys like them. My opinion, If you want a motor in the 10 hp range, for $4-500 you should find a fairly good 1977 or newer Johnson or Evinrude 9.9 with CD ignition, that will be a way better motor with more power.Avoid the 1974-1976 OMC 9.9 with the low tension ignition (points and condensers), 1977 and later have CD ignition,a way better system. I have done both of these 9.9’s ignition types, been there done that, right fleetwin 🙂
Be patient the right motor will come along, you have all winter to find the right motor , maybe one of our members may have a good one available? Look for a fresh water motor,it will be worth the wait. I am getting pickier as i gain knowledge on outboards, and I listen to our members, who have helped me considerably.
Thanks one and all! Jim PSB EDIT

"Some people want to know how a watch works, others just want to know what time it is"
Robbie Robertson

[garry-in-michigan]

The prices are normal for a good running outboard. However the forward motor mount and the rubber seals that keep exhaust away from the carburetor are no longer available. . . 🙁

[1946zephyr]

Yea, I would stay away from the 9.5’s. They’re nice when in great condition and run nice, but when they age, things are tough to work on. The best motor in that horsepower range, is the 55 – 57 10hp Johnson/Evinrude. Easy to work on and tough as nails. Chances are, you can get one of these cheaper and by the time you replace all the ignition components and re-seal the lower, you’re likely going to be in it, for $250 or less.

[davesko]

I have a few 58-60 johnson- evinrudes 10hp all run and have been gone over. Dave Sko Hershey pa

[1946zephyr]

I like the 58 and newer 10’s but the lower units are barely enough to handle that kind of horsepower. They were designed for the 5.5 and 7.5. If there’s any water intrusion, you can kiss the pinion gear and bearing bye bye and the forward gear bearing will soon follow. The older 5 bolt lowers were built to withstand up to 25 horsepower and the little 10hp powerhead is very gentle on them. They weigh a tad more, but very much worth it.

[outbdnut2]

The 9.5s measured HP at the powerhead. Older 10s measured it at the propshaft and will run circles around the 9.5s. The 9.9s began measuring HP at he propshaft, It was, I think, somewhere in the mid to late 1980s, and will run circles around the 9.5 and the older 9.9s. When the Japanese motors started propshaft HP ratings, the US manufacturers had to follow suit because their motors of close or same HP didn’t perform near as well. I have a 1957 Johnson magazine ad that proudly stated measurement at the propshaft. My 9.5 will not plane off my 14′ aluminum lightweight, open, non-decked, 1972 Starcraft with just 160 pound me in it, and neither will Mercury 9.8s I’ve worked on, but the older 10s and newer 9.9s of both brands get up and go on that boat.
Dave

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