Shift rod seal help

[joecb]

I’m looking for a few words of wisdom… is there a way to change the shift rod seal without disassembling the gear case? Not an issue if the brass bushing has to be destroyed, we can make another easily. Thinking maybe, drill and tap a couple of holes in the bushing and try pulling it out??

Joe B

[crosbyman]

well the rod  needs to come out  of the way and the only way  is to  open the GC  to disconnect the  “shifter lever”

the brass bushing  drilling may be doable  but you still need to  pull the o-ring out

in any event why not  do all seals    (  drive-prop and… shift rod) see utubes)  for peace of mind  for years

sealin the GC isn’t so bad    spaghetti  seal and all   … just finish up with a pressure test

https://youtu.be/f93Qw0mmcP0

https://youtu.be/pX1u6rtUE1M

Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂

[labrador-guy]

Joe it looks like you are working on a fasttwin there.   That seal sits right under that brass plug.  If you can get that plug out you should be able to pull the fat seal out with a pick or something like that.   It would be good to check the gear case and the shift dog but it could be done from the top I guess.  The bigger OMC motors, that brass plug comes out from the bottom.

dale

[joecb]

Success, I pulled the brass bushing. Drilled and tapped (4-40) two holes in the bushing-  insert a couple of screws for grip, and pulled it out. Reason for the bad leak at the shift rod, previous guy had the wrong O ring installed. All back together now and pressure tests good. Oh, a little heat on the surrounding aluminum housing, likely eased the pull.

The motor, a friend’s 1969 9.5 HP

Joe B

[fleetwin]

Cool!  It is so frustrating when folks try to find cheap oring substitutes to save a few bucks.

[crosbyman]

lucky man … now you need to start over  and  post a  UTUBE for us. 🙂   must  have  been tricky to drill &   tap those small holes in the bushing !

great motors  🙂

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[joecb]

Yup’ Thats the motor, really nice example that you have there crosbyman. I don’t do utube, but I will take a couple of pix and post them.  Was really pretty easy, however my friend Mark says that I just got lucky, as he has encountered some of those brass bushings that he had to beat out with a drive punch, from the bottom, of course.

And while on the subject of the shrouded OMC 9.5’s… have you encountered the “always” broken front rubber motor mount? This one is broken, rubber sheared off of the metal mount plate. $50 for a used one !!!! , I am working on a $5 work-around fix… stay tuned for the rest of the story.

Joe B

[crosbyman]

I   refurbed about 6  turtles but  never encountered any problems with the rubber mounts. I ear they are a pia to replace  because you have to take the lower housing apart.

there are probabbly some good utubes on how to do it.

my biggest hurdle was trying to fix  a friction bolt to keep the engine from  flopping around.  Also  had a busted  choke spring so I ordered some piano wire and made one up.

to bad I don’t have piano with all the left over wire I got. 🙂

that   nice  9.5 was picked up for $50 cdn   took a week to loosen stuck pistons and  it has been my best investment in oldys.

to reduce gas $$$    for all day trolling   I switched  in a nice Merc  4hp … that one was  free !  cleaned the carb  polished the point and  cleaned the lower gc of dirt to open up the water drain hole.  That little  4hp purrs all day  and sips gas.

 

 

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[joecb]

Fact is that there is a really good two-part video on dismantling that “turtle” 9.5 OMC’s . Not having
encountered one prior, they looked intimidating, watching the videos helped allay the fear. Search
“tear down Johnson 9.5 outboard” , the fellow does a good job of the show.
As for the rubber mounts, there are several rubber pieces that cradle the powerhead within the
“clamshell” shrouds. most are in compression, however the front rubber mount sees extension as well.
The rubber is bonded on both ends to metal brackets. Heat, oil and flexing eventually breaks the bond,
allowing for excessive fore and aft movement of the powerhead within the shroud. The front mount
is 312122, you can see what they look like on e-bay ($50)

Joe B

[john8504]

Hey Joe.  I have encountered the broken front mount as well and I could not find a new replacement and also resorted to eBay. Luckily I believe mine was only 15.00. It was not a fun job having to take that shroud apart either.

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