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I just finished measuring the cables in my boat. First I measured a new in the box Teleflex cable I had for another boat to see where they measure from, and they measure from the tips of the brass fittings at the ends where the piano wire comes out. My gearshift cable is 11 feet and the throttle cable is 12 feet. Any longer will just add more friction because you have to coil up the excess with more bends.
Note that Teleflex cables are now Seastar.
I will post photos of the routing next in a separate post because sometimes when I post more than one photo, the post goes “poof ” and disappears, and I wanted to be sure you get the measurements. Note the cables curve as they approach the rear starboard corner, then angle back up behind the battery box as they work their way forward to the holes in the splashwell. Temporarily Push the throttle cable farther up into the splashwell to put gas tank in and out.
Next post hopefully has photos getting through.
DaveThanks Dave! Basically, my current cables are about 2-1/2′ shorter than yours.
Your measurements are fairly close to what I figured I needed at minimum, so I’ll scrap the idea
of needing 14′ cables (two and three feet longer than yours) per the
manufactures instructions.Thanks for the photos! I see you have your solenoid box mounted on the
inside of the splash panel. My harness from the box wouldn’t be long
enough to reach the motor if I did so. Evidently they sold different length harnesses.I have the solenoid box mounted on rubber bushings, just to keep if off the splash panel
a ways. Of course I have steel bolts going thru the aluminum splash panel.
No signs of electrical erosion from the box being mounted in the same spot
years ago. I’m guessing the old harness will crap out sooner than later.Prepare to be boarded!
I just finished measuring the cables in my boat. First I measured a new in the box Teleflex cable I had for another boat to see where they measure from, and they measure from the tips of the brass fittings at the ends where the piano wire comes out. My gearshift cable is 11 feet and the throttle cable is 12 feet. Any longer will just add more friction because you have to coil up the excess with more bends.
Note that Teleflex cables are now Seastar.
I will post photos of the routing next in a separate post because sometimes when I post more than one photo, the post goes “poof ” and disappears, and I wanted to be sure you get the measurements. Note the cables curve as they approach the rear starboard corner, then angle back up behind the battery box as they work their way forward to the holes in the splashwell. Temporarily Push the throttle cable farther up into the splashwell to put gas tank in and out.
Next post hopefully has photos getting through.
DaveThanks Dave! Basically, my current cables are about 2-1/2′ shorter than yours.
Your measurements are fairly close to what I figured I needed at minimum, so I’ll scrap the idea
of needing 14′ cables (two and three feet longer than yours) per the
manufactures instructions.Thanks for the photos! I see you have your solenoid box mounted on the
inside of the splash panel. My harness from the box wouldn’t be long
enough to reach the motor if I did so. Evidently they sold different length harnesses.I have the solenoid box mounted on rubber bushings, just to keep if off the splash panel
a ways. Of course I have steel bolts going thru the aluminum splash panel.
No signs of electrical erosion from the box being mounted in the same spot
years ago. I’m guessing the old harness will crap out sooner than later.Actually, I have two solenoid boxes under there – if I had only one, I’d mount it to the back of the rib the seat back rests against. The one that came with the boat has the big plug on the motor end of the harness for the 1959 35 Lark , and I added another for the hard-wired harness that goes to the 40 HP Lark III that I currently have on it – I can easily switch out these and similar motors. Both boxes have long enough cables to get from there to the motor. I have two ignition switches up front too (one still temporarily mounted hanging down from the dash).
Glad I could help you out with the cables. You and others here have helped me on several motors! Thank you!
DaveHere are photos:
In this one, note the lowermost black line is a shadow, and my old cables (came with the boat) have tape on them where the old rubber started cracking with age..
Here they are with the battery box removed:
You can see them starting to curve here – the top black line is a shadow from the speedometer tube.
And connected to the motor – push the throttle cable up more into the splashwell to put gas tank in and out, pulling it back down when the gas tank is in place:
I’ve bought Teleflex cables from boatersland – prices reasonable – use your end connectors from the old cables – link below:
Davehttps://www.boatersland.com/enginesystems-controlcables-tel400.html
I like your Crestliner – either a 1957 Viking14 or in 1958 it was called a Voyager14, same model number. Here’s mine:
The Ford style solenoid is only a problem if it has been replaced with an actual Ford solenoid, because one of the solenoid coil terminals is the mounting bracket. The OMC and it’s Sierra replacement look like the Ford solenoid, but are different inside where the mounting bracket is not connected electrically to anything. The 2nd coil terminal is another small screw-thread terminal on the OMC.
Ford solenoids for cars with ignition points of the 1950s and 60s era also have two small terminals, but one is an internal relay contact that bypasses the resistor in series with the ignition coil while cranking for a hotter spark. Wiring these Ford solenoids like the OMCs that look the same will give you a burnt wire to the mercury switch on the throttle, that keeps it from cranking if the throttle is too high. There is no switch on the gearshift (that came along some years later if I remember right), so these old motors will start in gear, but only at an idle.
Note that Ford engines in older ski boats likeCorrect Craft that have breaker points, have the actual Ford solenoid with the resistor bypass while cranking.
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