- This topic has 30 replies, 7 voices, and was last updated 1 year, 5 months ago by
.
-
Its just stuck.
They can be a real pain to get off sometimes.
Many of the early Johnson screws, nuts and
bolts are of a thread that is no longer used so
be careful with and keep track of them.
Tubs.
I use a small two jaw OTC or Craftsman brand puller to
remove stubborn props!
1 user thanked author for this post.
In no particular order, some of the parts making up the lower assembly.
1 user thanked author for this post.
The Prop is stuck from just before the shear pin hole back.
I’d like to see what condition the L U is in inside. Not seeing
anything in there could be a bad sign. There are no seals so
some grease goes out the shafts. This lubes the bushings but
water enters replacing the grease. If water was left in there
to sit for decades you can have a prop gear that is fine ¾
of the way around and the teeth rusted off to some degree
on the rest of it. Maybe the last person to run it used gear
oil and it has all run out.
Using it without inspecting it first? Well if it’s junk you can’t
hurt it. Try moving the prop shaft up and down & side to side
to check the condition of the bushing. It is what it is but this
can give you some indication of what you might find inside.
Turn the prop back and forth to check the gear lash. Do this
every ¼ turn of the prop. Expect some slop but if it isn’t
excessive filling the L U with grease and using the motor may
free the prop up some. If the prop nut is tight up to the prop
I’d take out the cotter pin and back the nut off a couple holes.
You want to use lubriplate 105 or John Deere corn head
Grease in the gear case.
Looking at your L U picture, the steel driveshaft tube and
not having a cavitation plate indicate its early cast tank
Johnson. If you don’t want to disclose your serial number
would you say if it is in the hundreds or what thousand’s?
Tubs.
Remove the two screws on the gearcase head and you can pull the prop,prop shaft and bevel gear out of the case as one unit.You can then more easily remove the prop.The drawing shows the setup in the gearcase.
1 user thanked author for this post.
a good possibility is to get some oil of wintergreen from the drugstore and use it as penetrating oil, give it time to work in, ive had great results with it.
1 user thanked author for this post.
Serial numbers from 3931 to 7500 are 1923.
The cast tank Johnson’s have a strong interest
in the hobby. Your LU is in better condition than
most. An indication your motor has been well
cared for. If you want to disassemble it any farther
you should remove the pump first. Don’t want to
beat this fastener thing to death but the rope
starter screws are the ones most likely to have
been chewed up and are really hard to come by.
They are way to small to be used with a puller.
Here is a link on how to remove the flywheel and
one with some history on the early Johnson’s you
might find interesting.
Tubs
https://youtu.be/RWgE9XiIBnk
https://www.yankeeaomci.org/johnsonat85.htm
.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.
