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Most any prop shop in your area should be able to take care of this for you. I also have a spun hub on my ’59 10hp.
Bob
1937 Champion D2C Deluxe Lite Twin
1954 Johnson CD-11
1955 Johnson QD-16
1957 Evinrude Fastwin 18
1958 Johnson QD-19
1958 Johnson FD-12
1959 Johnson QD-20“Every 20 minute job is only a broken bolt away from a 3-day project.”
"Every time you remove a broken or seized bolt an angel gets his wings."I was recently down this road with 18 hp OMC props. I work at a boat yard, so we deal with prop repair people all the time. I was told that it is not economically sensible to get them repaired, because the cost would be very close to brand new. They also said that they would often split the aluminum, trying to press in a new hub, so they gave it up on the smaller props. I think new props for 10s are available. I KNOW they are for 18s, because I have already bought three.
All that being said, I also took a spun 18 prop and carefully drilled for, and installed, three stainless 3/16″ (maybe they were a little bigger; it was awhile ago….) roll pins in it, right behind the trailing edge of each blade. I examined for where there would be the most meat in the hub, by pressing the spun hub out, then back in. The good thing about roll pins is that they can be pretty flush with the outside of the prop and don’t look quite as cheesy as screws. I feel pretty confident it will work but I haven’t tried it yet.
Long live American manufacturing!
Bill– when you pinned your prop did you change what kind of drive pin you use?
No, the same drive pin is used. All that you see are the very ends of the three pins. Some day, I have to take the time to figure out how to post pictures.
Long live American manufacturing!
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