Steering cable mount point?

[amuller]

This may be departing a bit from being a strictly outboard question but I’m not finding much information:

The boat has push-pull steering, and since it’s a pre-tilt-tube motor, the cable end, actually a rigid sleeve, is held by a bracket with a ball-and-socket setup. Teleflex calls it a "clamp block" (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Teleflex-SA2705 … 2082871467) This means that the cable moves quite a bit when the motor is tilted. I’m thinking that the bracket should be both lowered, and moved further from the centerline of the boat towards the stb. side, so as to reduce cable motion where it passes through a bellows. I’ve not found anything on how to work out the proper position for this and don’t want to drill the transom experimentally. Can anybody advise, or point me to literature on how best to set this up?

Thanks.

[dave-bernard]

here’s mine

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[frankr]

quote amuller:

This may be departing a bit from being a strictly outboard question but I’m not finding much information:

The boat has push-pull steering, and since it’s a pre-tilt-tube motor, the cable end, actually a rigid sleeve, is held by a bracket with a ball-and-socket setup. Teleflex calls it a “clamp block” (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Teleflex-SA2705 … 2082871467) This means that the cable moves quite a bit when the motor is tilted. I’m thinking that the bracket should be both lowered, and moved further from the centerline of the boat towards the stb. side, so as to reduce cable motion where it passes through a bellows. I’ve not found anything on how to work out the proper position for this and don’t want to drill the transom experimentally. Can anybody advise, or point me to literature on how best to set this up?

Thanks.

Your thoughts are sound

[garry-in-michigan]

In order to minimize distortion with various tilt pin locations, the clamp block should be on the same level as the tilt bolt. Turn the steering wheel so all cable is pulled in against the lock. Turn the motor in that direction and temporarily clamp the clamp block in place. Turning the wheel the other way against the lock should push the motor against its lock. If it does not move the anchor on the motor steering bar closer to the engine. If the engine hits the lock first and you cannot move the anchor farther out, Move the anchor block to split the difference so the motor and wheel will both be centered. . . 🙂

[amuller]

Thank you, Garry!

[amuller]

quote Dave Bernard:

here’s mine

A very nice rig. Thanks for sharing the pics. What is the round black thing that looks like it has a pointer on it?

Alan

[dave-bernard]

shift and throttle cable all in one ‘ the is a auto tranny motor. shift throttle and steering all in the tiller handle.

[amuller]

I’ve heard of those, but never encountered one in the flesh. Supposed to be a real challenge to change the pump impeller?

[labrador-guy]

amuller, here is my concoction for a mounting point for an OMC motor. I have had a tele-flex for several years and it always bound up when the motor was tilted. I used a tie rod end and a flat piece of steal. Then I added some up and down movement and this seams to work good so far.

dale

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[amuller]

Thanks. Yr design looks sound to me.

Like so many old boat projects, this one has grown and I need to pull out the cable and check it for kinks and openings in the jacket.

Reading what’s online about all this, I’m thinking that the industry-wide recommendation for using "no feedback" helms with outboards makes a lot of sense, at least for larger motors.

Anybody know how steering cable length is measured? Some say to measure the jacket length and add something, but it’s unclear.

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