Home › Forum › Ask A Member › Stumped…AGAIN, 1962 OMC 10hp
- This topic has 45 replies, 12 voices, and was last updated 8 years, 6 months ago by beerman57.
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May 22, 2016 at 5:05 pm #36973
Mumbles, you lost me. On the intake manifold? What in the world did marineengine do, besides make their site useless? Anyway, here is the ’63’ powerhead, I’m sure it’s the same as a ’62’.
http://www.marineengine.com/parts/johns … +Fuel+Pump
May 22, 2016 at 8:51 pm #36979He means the #5 bolts, on the carb page.
http://www.marineengine.com/parts/johns … Carburetor
May 22, 2016 at 8:53 pm #36980When I rebuild a motor, every bolt get Gasket sealing compound on it. Will ensure no leaks there, as well as protect from corrosion. The intake manifold, the bypass covers, the exhaust bolts, the head bolts, the powerhead bolts, the crank halve bolts, etc…
Same with water pump housing screws, etc…
May 23, 2016 at 3:35 am #37004Yeah, you’re talking about making motor run lean? Or a vacuum leak there would make it (do what), suck more fuel but still run perfect, you couldn’t ask for a better running motor.
May 24, 2016 at 12:35 am #37043Mr. BEERMAN,
May I ask did you use the spray primer on the opposite side of the block halves? A little mouse tells me you didn’t. I Know you got the halves perfect clean right? Pull it down & do it right please. Only one afternoon & once you wash your hands no one will ever know! RIGHT? No?
JeffMay 24, 2016 at 3:31 am #37049It’s been a while now, but I’m sure I wiped the block surfaces with acetone. Who frickin knows, maybe I completely forgot gel-seal. If I did do gel-seal and fuel is coming out between the block halves, shouldn’t I be seeing some red (gel-seal?). I’m in no hurry, I have other projects, this thing can sit for a while. Seriously considering starting the MK50 again, removing the MK55 decal my rebuilder was nice enough to put on, and selling. I’m thinking if my boat will handle it, the ’84’ Johnson 40, 50hp now after carbs and reeds, will be my go to motor. Like I’ve said before, I like to go fast.
May 24, 2016 at 2:23 pm #37066Yes Sir,
You should see a little squeese of sealer coming out. Did you use the spray can too? YES I would be working on the Mark 50 too! How original is it?
I have one too. No rubbers in the leg to loosen too. You have a tiller model?May 24, 2016 at 2:50 pm #37069Spray can? the MK50 original powerhead was junk, so it’s not matching numbers, but completely restored and beautiful – with an accessory tiller.
May 24, 2016 at 10:57 pm #37102Mr. Beerman,
I thought so. My 92-12564 2 Quicksilver marine parts & accessories locktite master gasket kit has two different solutions to make a crankcase sealer.
It comes with locktite 518 in a syringe & the primer 7649 spray can primer to be sprayed on one half of the crankcase & the other 518 part number
8222423. This is why it didn’t seal, you didn’t use the primer. What a bummer huh! I like my Mk 50 too! I was so lucky it had good parts & compression
too. I got it from a guy, old member of the club that is facing some time so I got it when he didn’t want to sell it. He needed the money & I had a few bucks. Mine was in good shape except for sitting outside for ages. Your crankcase sealer will work well but together with the primer spray too.
JeffMay 25, 2016 at 12:49 am #37116OK, but let’s say there isn’t a problem with the block halves and assuming I wiped the block halves with acetone and used gel-seal (NAPA), I don’t know, splitting the block will tell, it’s been a long time now. I’ve forgotten simpler things – I think the phone must have rung, but I left a coil loose and the bolt rubbing on the flywheel made it buck like all get-out. Luckily the only damage was a bent bolt.
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