T2Stroke

[discoboater]

Wow ! Some really great info here fleetwin. As far as the compression test goes; I wasnt overly concerned with what the readings are in terms of accuracy. I more want to get an idea if there are problems in any cylinders. If the readings are fairly consistent with each other I will assume that there arent any issues there. I would like to do it today, I am just a bit reluctant because I normally do the compression testing with the boat "on the muffs". Ive read that you should have the motor connected to the muffs whenever turning over for any reason. Also I didnt fill the cylinders with oil when winterizing, so I dont think that will pose any problems.
The original pump (if its part of the reservoir) is still on board. Im not sure how it was disconnected, outside of that I was told "it was done by a marine shop". I will give the connection on the crankcase a look to see if I can figure out what they used to block that port. There is usually a small amount of gas/oil mix in the pan of the cowl, not very much though. I assumed it was from overpriming when trying to get her to start. I dont think it is leaking anywhere else, its pretty clean. I will give those (if I can find em !) re circulation valve hoses a look. I will also get those pictures taken today. Im not sure if I will be able to post them though, or if that requires a paid membership. Also I believe that the motor is actually a 88′ not an 89′. The model # is J150TLXCA . The serial # is 7820921. Regardless, I will inspect the heads for the leads you mentioned and report back later. Thanks again !

[fleetwin]

Well, just cranking the engine without cooling water/ear muffs is not going to hurt anything. But, the engine should never be run without cooling water going through the water pump/aka muffs. Running the rubber water pump impeller dry will melt the vanes and make a big mess.
If you are concerned about just cranking the engine without the muffs, surely you can use the muffs/water while cranking, but it is not necessary…
Perhaps you can connect the muffs, turn the water on for a bit, then remove them while doing the compression test to avoid taking a bath…
OK, sounds like your engine was a "package engine", explaining why it’s model number does not conform to the standard "introduces" format…
Nonetheless, it is a late 80s model standard 150hp.
Try posting the pics here, don’t think you have to be a paid member to post pics….You can email the pics to me if you have trouble, I will get them posted: dkellogg56@gmail.com
Do me a favor and look at the model number one more time closely though, J150TLXCA seems inaccurate, the engine can not be both a 20"long and a 25" extra long model…Usually, the model number will be either a J150TXCA or J150TLCA…
Don

[discoboater]

So heres a few pictures I took yesterday. It was too cold to compression test. This first shot is of the cams on the starboard side of the engine. This is with the lever in neutral.

. The second 2 pics are of the carb flys, also with the lever in neutral.

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2018-04-03.zip

[discoboater]

The port head.

The starboard head

Starboard head from another angle

[discoboater]

Unplugged molex ive noticed on the port side of the engine. Presumably from the VRO system

[fleetwin]

OK, the picture is of the throttle cam/roller with the control in neutral….Is the idle stop screw hitting the block in this throttle position? In any event, the throttle cam is way out of adjustment and the throttle plates are not closed. So, the engine is not going to idle properly like this.. Try to take a picture of the SS idle stop screw and the block for me…
Finally, the temp switches are single leads so this is not a quikstart engine…

[discoboater]

Thanks Don, at least we might have some direction to go with now. I will do my best to get a picture of the idle stop screw for you.

[fleetwin]

Yes, it might just be that the plastic throttle cable trunnion is not adjusted properly, the engine throttle is not being pulled back all the way to the idle position…D

[discoboater]

I got a few more pictures today. I also pulled the batterys out and put them on the charger. So Im close to running that compression test finally. Although, since you mentioned that you believe the carbs to be out of adjustment, this is likely the cause of my problems, and the compression test will more be for reference sake. Doesnt hurt to do. So I did my best to get pics of the areas you asked for, im not certain if these are what your looking for. I hope so, if not please excuse me and maybe be more specific. So here we are : I think these first 2 are of the stop screw

I also took a couple of the block the best I could. I noticed that the port side had this stamped model # on it ! The owners manual and other paper work from Johnson give a slightly different #. Hmmm ?

And finally here is one of the plastic trunnion I think your talking about

Thanks again for taking the time to check in to this Don. Im hopeful that we heading forward now !

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[discoboater]

Sorry if the pics are a little out of order. Not sure what happened there !

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