The breaker points saga continues and cam play

[amuller]

Are you sure you actually got the correct points from Sierra? What you are describing sounds almost too far off. In general, though, the quality of point sets and condensers has deteriorated across the board. Sloppy assembly, misalignment … seems a lot more common than it used to be. IMO, it no longer makes entire sense to replace as a matter of course.

[jerry-ahrens]

I don’t think I’ve ever had points that wouldn’t close? That sounds odd to me. You always want to get OEM (dealer) points for these motors. Using Sierra ignition parts is a waste of time and money. Or, you can clean up your old points and install a couple new condensers. That may sound harsh, but I’ve chased my tail too many times with aftermarket points. One other thought… maybe you have a worn brass bushing around the pivoting point of the mag plate. That will cause the point adjustment to be erratic. It’s very common to find this issue while installing points. Try grabbing the mag plate and moving it fore and aft, and left to right, to check.

[dan-in-tn]

Remind me, what are we working on here again? What model motor and what part number points? Or tuneup kit was it? You shouldn’t be having this type of problems with OMC System Matched Parts or BRP stuff (same thing). All others beware! I keep about 50 sets in stock at all times of the most common (#172522) tuneup kit and have noticed no desenigrating of quality. These OEM points have been made in Turkey forever & still are as far as I can tell. I can’t remember the last time I had a bad condensor out of the box.
I don’t have to file new points or bend them. Just wipe between them with a business card with a distillate & set them at about .022 with the new oiler wick provided in the kit. Easy/peesy! Keep the extra clips & keepers for when you let one fly and on to the next job.

Dan in TN

[John Schubert]

Lots of good suggestions but never use paper that you torn off of a larger sheet. the ragged edge can leave tiny residue that prohibits the points from closing. I know first hand as we cleaned my "B" Quincy Looper points that way & they wouldn’t fire. Ever since that day when I was told to use a dollar bill or other denomination I have never had an issue.

[jeffersonsharp]

Sorry folks that I’ve ignored this thread for a couple days, I’ve been busy. The engines are 1957 Johnson 35 hp model RDE-19 that have been converted to long shaft. One of them has the gen kit.

The points I got were individual points I cross referenced from the part numbers I got from a parts manual I downloaded. I couldn’t find a tune up kit with google so I just bought parts piecemeal to be sure I got the right thing. I checked the numbers on the packages to confirm they sent me what I ordered. I’m pretty sure I got the right thing. There is really no significant play in the mag plate bushing.

The Sierra points are part #18-5156
The BRP tune up kit is part# 172522

Thanks for your help everyone, I’ll never buy Sierra points again and will think twice about buying anything else from them as well if I can avoid it.

[jeff-register]

Once the points are corrected also use a spring gauge to test for oz of pull it has. Too much & the rubbing block will wear out too fast. Too little & points will float at rpm. Not sure about OMC but Mercury shows specs in the manual, 😮
How about the caps, Load test them for holes in the dielectric wrap. Need an analog meter to static test.

[piperdan]

I am having a hard time finding replacement breaker points for a Johnson 1946 PO-15 22HP outboard the heel wear portion has broken off the original points. Part number 71-1146

[jeff-register]

What’s your crank run-out? Don’t want to damage the points, ele does not care how purdy. Good solid, clean connections & meter checked in every stage of assembly. RUN-OUT again? May be time 4? Also what is the points spring tention, has to bee correct to not hurt the rub block or float 2.

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