Home Forum Ask A Member There has to be a better way to remove the prop shaft seal

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  • #1437
    marvk
    Participant

      …..And I didn’t use it.

      Replacing the seals in the lower on my ’56 Fleetwin. First one was the seal under the water pump housing. I was able to tap it out from behind with a small punch. After going around it a few times, it popped right out, easy. Put the new one in, and went on to the next one, the prop shaft seal.

      Using the same method and being mindful not to damage the shaft bearing or housing, I have totally mucked up the flange of the old seal to the point where I can’t get it out. It won’t budge. I spent over an hour trying to pull it out by what flange is left, but it’s not not moving a bit.

      I’m hoping some of you veterans that have been through this countless times, can help me out, and give me some ideas on what to do to remove it without damaging the housing.

      I was hoping to get it on the water this weekend, but I’m thinking not. 🙁

      #15555
      chinewalker
      Participant

        US Member

        Taking care not to mar the housing, collapse it in on itself. A flat blade screw driver may help.

        #15562
        marvk
        Participant

          Soaked it overnight in penetrating oil. Ready to take another shot at it.

          #15564
          Doug Wilson
          Participant

            US Member - 2 Years

            If soaking them did not loosen it enough to come out carefully try a small punch or screw driver and hammer and collapse as Chinewalker said it should come lose, could be someone used a hardening gasket sealer when they put it in.
            Doug

            Doug

            how is it motors multiply when the garage lights get
            turned off?

            #15585
            rzelmer
            Participant

              On some difficult seals you will have to cave in and break the side wall of the seal. This is not pretty. You end up taking the seal out in pieces. Usually a small blade screw driver and hammer will be required.
              You may get a few nicks on the rim of the housing, which will have to be smoothed out. These nicks should but not enough to harm new seal function.

              Bob Z.

              #15597
              johnyrude200
              Participant

                I’ve been through this drill before. Sucks. I’ll save you the hassle of having to destroy a newly installed seal to discover that the bearing orifice has a ding in it from removing the old one. Use some crankcase sealing compound when you install the new seal so it won’t leak air/water around the prop shaft bearing. It won’t harden to the point that the next guy has to scrap it, but will withstand pressure and exposure to gas/oil/water and temperature.

                You’ll have to let the compound sit overnight before pressure testing the gearcase (otherwise you’ll just force the compound out wherever there is a leak), but it will be air tight the next day.

                #15598
                Mumbles
                Participant

                  I cut them out with the lathe.

                  #15601
                  chris-p
                  Participant

                    If you put the head in the vice just right, you can work a seal puller around the seal, and pull it out evenly.

                    Don’t use the head as leverage, try to lever the seal puller against the jaws of the vice. I have a jig now I use, so I don’t damage the head.

                    As stated, I run a bead of 847 around the circ of the seal before I reinstall. Same goes for the drive shaft seal. Just ensures they don’t leak.

                    The Fleetwin bearing head is a little better than say the 35hp head, I have broken my share of them in the past trying to remove the prop shaft seal too quickly!

                    #15627
                    marvk
                    Participant

                      Well, this is where I’m at. It’s pretty ugly. I’ve spent probably at least 4hrs using a small punch and screwdriver to try and collapse it back in on itself. I think it’s the original seal, because the new one doesn’t seem to have a double wall.

                      I got the inner cup/ring out finally, but the outer part that actually seats in the housing is still stuck. Miraculously, I don’t think I damaged the inner wall of the housing. I’m giving up for now. I like Jim’s idea about cutting it out on a lathe. Have to wait until I get back to work next week though. What a PITA! 😡

                      Thanks I appreciate all the suggestions. It still was something that had to be done, as when I took the gearcase apart, there was water in it.

                      #15631
                      Mumbles
                      Participant

                        To get under the edge of the seal, a small pin punch ground on an angle to a sharp point works wonders getting the seal started to fold over. Once it’s started, it’s all downhill from there. I try not to scratch or damage the housing but if it happens, I don’t let it bother me too much as the green Loc Tite or whatever I use will seal it up.

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