Topic: There has to be a better way to remove the prop shaft seal – Page 2

This topic has 22 replies, 13 voices, and was last updated 8 years, 11 months ago by dave-bernard.

Viewing 10 posts - 11 through 20 (of 23 total)

← 1 2 3 →

Author

Posts
May 9, 2015 at 11:58 pm #15632
dave-bernard
Participant
US Member - 1 Year (includes $3 online payment fee)
if you have a dremel use it to cut a groove so you can split it in half.
May 10, 2015 at 1:17 am #15637
chris-p
Participant
Boy, that looks like a bad one!

Is it a salty? I never have issues like that here in the middle of the country!
May 10, 2015 at 1:56 pm #15664
marvk
Participant
No, I don’t believe it’s a salt water motor. I would expect lots more corrosion or build up in the cooling passageways. I have the powerhead off, and this one is pretty clean in that regard.

It’s almost there. I just need a little more patience. I just had to set it aside for awhile. I was hoping to get it running this weekend, but there is always next weekend. 🙂
May 10, 2015 at 3:13 pm #15666
dan-in-tn
Participant
US Member - 1 Year (includes $3 online payment fee)
It may be a little late now, but I heat the bearing head. Clean it good & pull the rubber out so it won’t smoke so bad then put it in an oven. About 275 for 30 min. The aluminum will grow away from the brass and soften the gunk. You need a pair of welders gloves to handle it, but the seal usually comes right out. The brass bushing is cast in to the aluminum so no damage is done there. That’s the way I do anything that is stuck in aluminum that can be heated.

Dan in TN
May 10, 2015 at 6:02 pm #15671
jeff-register
Participant
US Member - 2 Years
Reminds me of Mercury seals. Try using a cut off wheel on a dremel to start pealing it off. My Hat’s off to you getting that far with none or little damage. You might try heat too. I’ve had impeller housings glued in with sealer & needed to get the goop hot in order to get it to release.
Keep up the good work!!
May 10, 2015 at 9:22 pm #15677
frankr
Participant
US Member - 1 Year (includes $3 online payment fee)
A "cape chisel" is a version of what mumbles suggested. It’s what I use. Sometimes. In the case of gearcase heads, I do as somebody else suggested—cut them out on a lathe.
Another suggestion: Got a Dremel tool? Grind just barely through a spot on one side of the shell that you have left and it will fall out.
May 10, 2015 at 9:46 pm #15680
jeff-register
Participant
US Member - 2 Years
Frank R.
May I ask the cost of a small lathe used for small jobs like this. Where would a guy look to buy a used one also?
Thank you
May 10, 2015 at 10:18 pm #15681
frankr
Participant
US Member - 1 Year (includes $3 online payment fee)
Heck, I don’t know. I bought my ancient 9" South Bend on e-bay several years ago. Then spent just about as much again on repairs, updates and tooling.
May 10, 2015 at 11:07 pm #15682
jeff-register
Participant
US Member - 2 Years
Thank you for the reply. Guess it’s like looking up a drill motor, anything goes with size etc.
At any rate I hope you get the old seal out without too much more problems.
Reminds me of my current project. Inching forward at best to find more Got-Ya’s.
Good luck!
May 11, 2015 at 3:21 pm #15711
marvk
Participant
Success! Finally got it out! 😀 Picture is kinda crappy, from my phone. I just have to press in the new one, and I can continue on.

I can’t believe that I didn’t score the surface at all. I ended up using a pencil air grinder, similar to Dremel, with an 1/8" carbide cutter. Split it in half and it pulled it out.
Author

Posts