Thinking about a run tank

[Samuel Phelps]

Hey guys , I was considering building a tank . Are there any plans out there to get some idea on functional shapes.
I hear they should have baffles of some sort . I will probably construct it with plywood and poly or epoxy .
Anyone have experience with building one ?
The goal is to have one large enough to run say up to a 50/60 hp if needed .
But most importantly to keep the water inside the tank and not on my feet ..LOL!!!

[garry-in-michigan]

my post disappeared –

[garry-in-michigan]

Try again –

[Samuel Phelps]

Thanks Garry ! Sorry about all your post disappearing .. That’s gotta be really aggravating …
I like this design and could make it or something close to it ..And not too awful heavy when empty .. I will probably use plywood ..If I go poly resin glassed then I will roll a few coats of gellcoat inside .
If I go epoxy then I will have to just paint it .. Thinking I should build a base so I could roll an engine hoist under it for larger motors ..

[johnyrude200]

Go buy a 250 gallon tote with the metal cage and just cut the top to suit. You can add a 2×12 to act like a transom. You’ll need some test props.

I have run 70hp motors in mine with ease right up to full throttle. If you need something to run a V4/V6, you’ll need something a lot beefier made of steel or it’ll fold up like an accordion.

Totes are cheap and after a couple of hours of customizing ready to go. You don’t have to worry about rust either. Plus if it gets damaged you can replace it easily.

Buy some test tank cleaner to cut down on grease/oil mix build up on your motors. Plus they already have a drain valve built in. You can buy adapter couplers to hook up a garden hose if/when you decide to change out water.

[Samuel Phelps]

You mean something like this ..https://www.ntotank.com/275gallon-nto-white-reconditioned-ibc-tote-tank-x7738445?gclid=CjwKCAiA27LvBRB0EiwAPc8XWd0AJZ1VBAeiIULmZpkitvBKPCIiAdAjiSrgNY1BYM5O5u3KaZBZaBoCrA8QAvD_BwE

I have a nice big plastic bin that I use now but my Speeditwin will empty it out pretty quick .I even made a nice cover for the top that surrounded the motor foot but it still emptied pretty fast … That’s why I want something to divert the flow to keep it in the tank . That’s what the slanted baffle should do ..
I also like the chimney of sorts on the design Garry posted .. Might help divert some of the exhaust fumes ..

[garry-in-michigan]

This is from a 1947 service manual – anything over 8 horse power really needs a test wheel.

I used an oil trap to help keep the oil out of the environment.

[johnyrude200]

Yes on that tote (forgot they are 275 gallons). Again the test prop is key. And running with a regular prop doesnt balance the load in a test tank. They are usually on craigslist too for cheaper (around here they are 50-100.00).

Its pushing an immovable object and is not the right way to calibrate the motor. Take an old damaged prop and cut down the blades if you cant get a genuine test prop.

Its not nearly as good but is better than nothing. The OEM test props cut down on splash A LOT. Props with cut blades dont do this as well, and it’s easy to run an engine at too high RPMs with a cut prop method.

Others on here will say the cut prop is ‘good enough’ but I do this all the time with customers motors of all different sizes and Ill say an good OEM test prop is much better for evaluation/calibration procedures.

I personally only use cut props if I have no other option.

If you need to vent I just cut a hatch at the top rear of my tote and use a strong floor fan. Works just fine and keeps exhaust fumes away. I put a splash deflector at the middle of the tank too.

Or just keep an eye out on craigslist for closed marinas. Those big iron horses are a PITA to move and I see them get abandoned and scrapped out every year. They weigh a ton and the water gets rusty fast.

If you build out of wood make sure you have a strong frame! 300 gallons is 2400lbs of weight and a lot of expansion stress.

Remember buy test tank cleaner. It emulsifies and breaks down the oil/gas. It’s made specifically for test tanks. Again others might just say ‘use dish soap’ but that just makes a bigger mess with bubbles everywhere and foam. The actual tank cleaner suds up but then goes away and lasts much longer. 1 gallon Ive been using for 2 seasons and it works great.

• This reply was modified 4 years, 4 months ago by johnyrude200.

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