Thrust, hp, and weight comparisons

[bobw]

Charles – no, the gold ring is the support plate and it is fixed in position (it doesn’t move); the magneto sits on top of the support plate.  The magneto plate fastens to the silver colored retainer ring which sits below the support plate.  You can see 2 screw holes in the retainer ring and there are 2 more screw holes on the back side of the ring (hidden from view in my picture).   There are 4 screws that go through the magneto plate and fasten into the retainer ring.  The retainer ring rotates with the mag plate as you move the throttle.

As fleetwin notes, be sure the motor is fully engaged in forward gear so the mag plate can advance fully to the stop.

You have the correct understanding on adjustment of the economizer linkage – carburetor and throttle advance correctly synced, then mag plate advanced to wide open against the stop, then adjust the stop collar on the linkage rod.

 

Bob

1937 Champion D2C Deluxe Lite Twin
1954 Johnson CD-11
1957 Evinrude Fastwin 18
1958 Johnson QD-19
1958 Johnson FD-12
1959 Johnson QD-20

“Every 20 minute job is only a broken bolt away from a 3-day project.”
"Every time you remove a broken or seized bolt an angel gets his wings."

[fleetwin]

Again, I didn’t see any economizer linkage on the photos that Charles posted, will look again though.  I don’t have access to 1956 parts books, so don’t know for sure…

[bobw]

I’m pretty certain I can see the economizer link rod and stop collar in his picture, but the only way to see it is to enlarge the picture and turn the brightness way up on your computer.   I marked up his picture to show what I think I can see.

It would seem that since the ’56 Evinrude and Johnson 30hp motors were brothers from the same father they would both have the same feature.

Bob

1937 Champion D2C Deluxe Lite Twin
1954 Johnson CD-11
1957 Evinrude Fastwin 18
1958 Johnson QD-19
1958 Johnson FD-12
1959 Johnson QD-20

“Every 20 minute job is only a broken bolt away from a 3-day project.”
"Every time you remove a broken or seized bolt an angel gets his wings."

[fleetwin]

bobw wrote:

I’m pretty certain I can see the economizer link rod and stop collar in his picture, but the only way to see it is to enlarge the picture and turn the brightness way up on your computer.   I marked up his picture to show what I think I can see.

It would seem that since the ’56 Evinrude and Johnson 30hp motors were brothers from the same father they would both have the same feature.

Yep, you are correct, I see the economizer linkage now, thanks!  Don

[Charles Myers]

Thanks, everyone, for your help.  My exploded view/ parts list for my Evinrude year calls the rod a “throttle rod.”  (Incidentally I have now replaced that collar with an  original equipment collar.)  On the port side of the carburetor, that rod is linked to a lever on the throttle butterfly axle.  During full throttle and when the rod is pushed forward, the butterfly axle turns down as far as it can go.   The lever hits a stop when the throttle butterfly is completely horizontal.   Then the collar can be tightened to hold the throttle rod in that position (again at full throttle).

At that moment over on the starboard side a outdent on the brown part is almost all the way forward to stop against the vertical lockout lever (which moves the lever’s top part in or out when gears change).  (photo).  That all seems pretty good so far, but today in checking things over after those settings, I found a new unexpected problem.  The motor shifts fine into forward and neutral, but will not shift into reverse.  I have a feeling I am going to have to adjust the shift rod or even get into the lower unit to look for problems.

Again, I am very thankful for everyone’s advice.  If I have to take off and open up the lower gear unit, that will have to wait for my son to visit to help me.  I’m not sure when he can do that.  I’ll keep everyone updated as further developments occur.  As Gilder Radner as Roseanne Roseannadanna said “it just goes to show you, it’s always something — if it’s not one thing, it’s another.”

[reivertom]

Keep the old motor and learn how to service and fix it yourself. Newer motors aren’t as easy and are more complex. If you want to keep the old one and get another one to run, look for a late 1960s thru 1980s 2 stroke. They will be around the same weight and are fixable.

[fleetwin]

Charles Myers wrote:

Thanks, everyone, for your help.  My exploded view/ parts list for my Evinrude year calls the rod a “throttle rod.”  (Incidentally I have now replaced that collar with an  original equipment collar.)  On the port side of the carburetor, that rod is linked to a lever on the throttle butterfly axle.  During full throttle and when the rod is pushed forward, the butterfly axle turns down as far as it can go.   The lever hits a stop when the throttle butterfly is completely horizontal.   Then the collar can be tightened to hold the throttle rod in that position (again at full throttle).

At that moment over on the starboard side a outdent on the brown part is almost all the way forward to stop against the vertical lockout lever (which moves the lever’s top part in or out when gears change).  (photo).  That all seems pretty good so far, but today in checking things over after those settings, I found a new unexpected problem.  The motor shifts fine into forward and neutral, but will not shift into reverse.  I have a feeling I am going to have to adjust the shift rod or even get into the lower unit to look for problems.

Again, I am very thankful for everyone’s advice.  If I have to take off and open up the lower gear unit, that will have to wait for my son to visit to help me.  I’m not sure when he can do that.  I’ll keep everyone updated as further developments occur.  As Gilder Radner as Roseanne Roseannadanna said “it just goes to show you, it’s always something — if it’s not one thing, it’s another.”

Are you spinning the propeller when trying to shift into reverse?  The lugs on the clutch dog/gear must be lined up or you won’t be able to shift into gear “statically”.    Don’t take anything apart, please!  Let us know if you still have an issue.

It sounds like your engine is synced up correctly.    Perhaps the lack of power is just a matter or fine tuning the high speed mixture adjustment…

This engine looks like brand new, shouldn’t need a whole lot to get it running properly…

Don

[Charles Myers]

In forward gear, I noticed that the shift lever was not snapped into its forward notch (close to it but not in the notch).  Inspecting more closely, I found a screw and a bolt head for adjusting the position of the lever.  I tried loosening both the screw and the bolt head.  I don’t think the screw did anything to alter the shift lever’s movements, but the bolt head was in a slot (not just a hole).  I eased the lever into a different position for the bolt head relative to the slot and tightened it all.  Now the lever snaps into the forward, neutral, and reverse notches securely.  That is encouraging, but how that might have changed something down in the gear unit is uncertain.  In the forward notch, I hand turned the flywheel (clockwise); the propeller turned.  In the neutral notch, when I turned the flywheel, the propeller did not turn.  In the reverse notch, moving the flywheel turned the propeller in the opposite direction.  That is encouraging.  I appreciate your note about maybe being correctly synchronized.  I am thinking that, when my son can break free, it would be time to put the motor into a trash can full of water; then to set the slow and fast needles, and if all seems Ok, to take it to a lake for a trial and further fine tuning the slow and fast needles.

You are very right that the motor is extra clean.  Tearing into it more deeply is something I will resist.

Thank you for your advice.

[fleetwin]

OK, so you have loosened the fine shift adjustment on the shift lever.  There are two things that must be loosened here before adjustments can be made.  There is the screw that goes through the slot that is threaded into a square nut.  But, there is also a screw facing in a different direction that helps secure the shift lever to the inner shift shaft.  Both of these must be loosened slightly before adjustments can be made.

You are treading in dangerous waters here because it is critical that these adjustments be made properly, or premature clutch dog/gear lug damage will occur requiring gearcase tear down and expensive parts.

Don’t bother attempting to make those needle valve adjustments in a bucket of water, that is a waste of time.  These adjustments must be made while the boat is underway/unrestrained in the water.  The high speed needle is “dialed in” while running on the water at full throttle in gear, then the low speed needle is “dialed in” after slowing down while the engine is idling in gear.  It seems like winter is almost here, so I wouldn’t bother trying to make these needle valve adjustments until next spring, unless you live in a warm climate and plan on continuing to use the boat during late fall/winter.

[Charles Myers]

Very helpful.  Thank you

[Author]

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