Timing Question

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  • Yellowstone


    Replies: 56
    Topics: 11
    #204043

    So, I’m using the timing tool along with an OHM meter and setting brand new OMC points from an OMC Tune Up Kit. I have the “top” part of the tool pointing directly in between the two marks on the mag plate for the top cylinder and can set that. But when I rotated the tool and have the “bottom” part pointing in between the marks, nothing I try gets the meter to stop chirping. I’ve lined the points up, tried loosening and tightening the screws every which way but the points don’t seem to open far enough to break. They’re pretty tight. I can nudge the point with the screwdriver ever so gently and it breaks and the chirping stops. Is there something obvious I’m just over looking. Gonna mess with and readjust some more. Thanks!


    fleetwin

    US Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 4737
    Topics: 46
    #204046

    I’m assuming the chirping indicates a complete circuit to ground…Is the meter chirping even when the points are open? Have you cleaned the points? Perhaps the new points are defective. Is the mag plate sloppy? How about trying this backwards….Try setting the points to .022″ (for new points), then use the timing tool to see where the ohm meter indicates they are breaking open…


    Buccaneer

    US Member - 1 Year (includes $3 online payment fee)
    Replies: 7495
    Topics: 1072
    #204047

    Can you manually open the points with a screw driver and get the points to break continuity?
    Or is there something physically preventing the points from opening?

    Prepare to be boarded!


    Yellowstone


    Replies: 56
    Topics: 11
    #204048

    Thanks. Yes. When the chirping or constant beeping stops then the point has opened. The point never really opens. I wore a headlamp and got my eyeball down there. Ha. I did clean the points. I wiped them. Then I even used a little very fine sand paper and cleaned with clean paper. When you say mag plate sloppy, do you mean its dirty? It was pretty clean but I wiped it down with a little carb cleaner when it was naked. I believe I assembled them right. I can get them to open when the timing tool isn’t lined up. When the “top” on the drive shaft is lined up that point.


    frankr

    US Member - 1 Year (includes $3 online payment fee)
    Replies: 6715
    Topics: 51
    #204051

    Actually, this is the second time I’ve read a similar report recently. As I recall, the last guy also had new OMC points and wound up replacing them with Sierra. I hope I got the story right, it’s kind of foggy here at 3:14 AM (fog’s in my head)


    crosbyman

    Canada Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 3588
    Topics: 326
    #204053

    swap the good point set to the other ‘s place and retime …….if OK you can assume the bad set ..is bad

    Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂


    h20lew

    US Member - 1 Year (includes $3 online payment fee)
    Replies: 51
    Topics: 17
    #204054

    Also just try rotating the crank with the tool and observe the points as it passes the marks. Can you observe the points opening? You should be able to see a gap as it rotates past the marks. I’ve found you need the hold down screw loose but not too loose. I’ve had that behavior and then turned the hold down screw tighter and nudged the base of the points with a screwdriver and gotten it to work where it didn’t before.


    fleetwin

    US Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 4737
    Topics: 46
    #204056

    By sloppy mag plate, I mean perhaps the bushing is worn allowing the mag plate to move somewhat from side to side, try rocking it back and forth with the points open to see if the gap varies much or if there is noticeable sideways slop…


    Yellowstone


    Replies: 56
    Topics: 11
    #204060

    Thanks all. I will definitely try some of these tips and tactics later when I can get to it.


    Yellowstone


    Replies: 56
    Topics: 11
    #204122

    So I tried nearly everything but using the timing tool, I just couldn’t get the bottom point to break using the multimeter. This included trying a few different points. BUT, when I go the basic method without the tool, I can get them both to open easily by lining the “Top” arrow on the cam up with the edge of the point aimed it. That works great. It bugs me about the tool since I know it works great and has for me in the past the couple of times I have used it.

    I also noticed tonight one coil’s grounding wire insulation has rubbed away a bit. You can see bare wire some. I wouldn’t have thought it would have rubbed. Thoughts on that? Do you do anything in those instances? Wrap it with anything? These are two new OMC coils I put in a few weeks ago before I decided to go back in and put new points and condensers in. The old coils were cracked to heck.

    Gonna try to get the fly wheel back on and see what we have after I give it a second look tomorrow. Thanks for your help!

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