TN26 resurrection

[vikkip]

Here is the first real problem I’ve uncovered.
There is quite a bit of scoring in this bushing and on the shaft. What repair options are available? What issues will I encounter if I operate it as is? Prop vibration?

[shoestringmariner]

is there any slop with the shaft in the bore? If not, and if it was mine, I’d just polish it up and throw it back in.

That impeller looks brand new. the one I replaced looked worse and did not return to a pliable state (maintained its position that it was in the housing)

[vikkip]

I can’t say that it’s really sloppy, but you can feel the grooves in both surfaces. The seal behind the prop is rock hard and looks like it let some sand into the gear case. I’ve cleaned it out really well, solvent washed then Pine-Sol then soap and water followed by hot water so there is no grit left.

I pulled the neutral cable all the way out. It is rather challenging to put it back in.

[Doug Wilson]

you can coat the original float in clear fuel resistant model airplaine dope couple of coats and should be fine. The impeller if any of the vanes are not straight even if it is flexible replace it while it is apart not worth the risk

Doug

how is it motors multiply when the garage lights get
turned off?

[vikkip]

The longer this float sits dry the more crumbly it gets. I’ll get some butyrite dope tomorrow as well as a new cork and will give a try to turning a new one to the same specifications.

I have a new o-ring and prop shaft seal coming Sunday so if all goes well I will be able to barrel test it on Monday!

Once I left the impeller on my desk for a while the vanes started to straighten. It’ll go back in for now but I know that a bottom end replacement is in my future.

[vikkip]

Leather seals and brass washers installed in carb bore, but no brass cylinder. Plunger with cup and spring alongside. This is all that was in the plunger assembly.

Crumbly cork.

[reivertom]

I’ll just bet that motor will run quite a while with that shaft. If you seal it back right as you said, and fill it with "Ackempucky", as my Dad used to say (Corn Head Grease in this case), unless you run it every day for years, I’d say you are good to go. Grease everything well when you re-assemble. Just keep watch for water in the lower unit and keep pumping the grease to it. You are making me want to get my TN28 fixed and going down the river!

[reivertom]

quote ShoestringMariner:

is there any slop with the shaft in the bore? If not, and if it was mine, I’d just polish it up and throw it back in.

That impeller looks brand new. the one I replaced looked worse and did not return to a pliable state (maintained its position that it was in the housing)

Yeah, just take any sharpness off with a polishing grade paper (600-1000 grit), but not diameter. Be careful.

[cajuncook1]

That float may or may not work with a couple of airplane dope coatings. I prefer to use a Mercury float that is made of foam and it is just the right size. Others have used this foam float as a replacement with good results. I have replaced the carburetor float in my 1953 TN28 and my 1937 Johnson 1.7hp model 110 with the mercury float listed below and no problems. There is a post that describes the slight modification to the float to make it work.

Post with information:

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=6125&p=31868&hilit=TN+float#p31868

Sierra Marine Mercury Carb Float 18-7208

http://www.marineengine.com/newparts/pa … SIE18-7208

[vikkip]

No spark at either plug. While waiting for lower end seals, I’ll tear into the ignition today.

[Author]

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