TN26 resurrection

[reivertom]

quote VikkiP:

I got everything on my shopping list but the cork. ACE only has up to 1″ other than the useless composite corks. Tried housewares at Salvation Army store and none there either. I’ll have to wait to go to the homebrew store, they closed for the weekend. Meanwhile I’ll dress this old one and expect to have to change it.

If you coat it, it might out last the motor….you just never know.

[vikkip]

I’m guessing that if they did go bad and I couldn’t find any, a newer style breaker plate and coils could probably be made to work. These may outlast me, though.

I weighed what was left of the cork, sanded the crumbled stuff off and weighed again, and coated with hot fuel safe dope. Once dry, I’ll weigh yet again and recoat if I’m not too far above weight, as I undoubtedly lost a little weight on the initial stripping of the coating.

[vikkip]

Reassembly started. I can’t fill the bottom end until the seals get here tomorrow, but I reassembled enough to do a compression check.

Dry (a few shots of fogging oil into those cylinders that sat dry for 50 years) reads 65 psi lower, 68 psi upper. I didn’t look up the optimum but that seems about 25 psi lower than I want to see. I’m thinking the rings are probably sticking a bit.

Starter pulls nicely with the new rope. The float gained .16 grams, or 4% of the total weight, from a single coat of dope. I did apply a second coat which should put the weight right about back to pre-sanding weight and shouldn’t affect the buoyancy too much. If it does, I’ll replace the float.

Fuel tank and shutoff don’t leak, and flow very nicely. I forgot to shut the valve 🙄

Neutral does not seem to disengage the prop, though. It’s more than just free spinning, I think. I’ll block it up and see. I hope the clutch spring didn’t drop below the cam during reassembly.

Everything I see on this engine shows an amazing amount of engineering prowess in the "K.I.S.S." department. This is a lovely little engine! I think I am hooked!

Once I’ve finished this one I know father-in-law will ask if I will refresh his Clinton 5 hp. It runs but that is all that can be said in its favor, more like it declines to die. My husband and I have been married 30 years and Dad’s never done any maintenance on it. Anyone here ever played with one of those?

[Anonymous]

quote VikkiP:

Dry (a few shots of fogging oil into those cylinders that sat dry for 50 years) reads 65 psi lower, 68 psi upper. I didn’t look up the optimum but that seems about 25 psi lower than I want to see. I’m thinking the rings are probably sticking a bit.

OMC didn’t tend to publish expected compression numbers.
From the notes I have, 70-75 is good for the TN/TD series:
it could come up a little after you’ve run it, so you’re doing well!

What are you used to working on?

[vikkip]

I used to restore cars but it’s a hobby now. First ‘Cudas, more recently ’67-69 Firebirds. I have a shop full of tools and rarely use them. Bikes…street and dirt, two strokes and four, one to four cylinders all carbureted. I like the old Enduros. I had six last year, down to two this year and two new ones for dirt road trips.

I find this old Johnson refreshingly simple, even more than a mid ’70s Suzuki or Kawasaki. I haven’t had to use or make a special tool yet!

[cajuncook1]

If there is a hobby lobby store near you, they usually have various size corks. You may have to customize it but it should come out ok.

Cajun

[Anonymous]

Working on OMC products (Evinrude/Johnson/Gale) won’t give you TOO many tool buying opportunities.
But I hear Mercury engines will!

[vikkip]

Looking for advice from the experienced…new seal and o ring on the prop shaft bearing…how do I get that nut plate to stay flat while installing the screws? As soon as I start one, the plate moves and I can’t get the others started.

[vikkip]

Problem solved. I used a 5" 1/4-20 bolt and threaded it through the bottom hole of the bearing case into the nut plate, and used the long bolt to pull the plate toward the bearing case. I then installed the upper two screws lightly, pressed the bearing case into the casting, and snugged the two upper screws. I then removed the long bolt and replaced it with a screw and washer and filled with hypoid lube.

One tablespoon came out when I started this project, and around a pint went in.

[vikkip]

I hope everyone had a safe and enjoyable holiday weekend! I finished assembly of the carburetor, and of the carburetor to the engine. I mixed up some fuel and poured about two cups in the tank. I crossed my fingers, turned on the fuel valve, and within seconds had fuel leaking from the needle guide, all the screws, and everywhere but the fuel lines. I checked the float through the needle guide and it was floating, I bounced it and it definitely moved up and down. I think the grooves in the needle are too severe to make a good seal, and I need to find a new needle. Are they available afermarket, or is this a used item only? For washers, are nylon washers acceptable or should I round up some fiber washers to fit?

[Author]

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