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vikkip.
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July 6, 2016 at 10:12 pm #39744July 6, 2016 at 10:45 pm #39745
This information was obtained from the Poche Website.
quote :Carb Cap Gasket Leakage after Re-install: Sometimes the carburetor cap gasket will leak a little on re-install. Run the outboard and allow the gasket to swell with gas and oil. It might also be that the float is stuck after the motor has not been run for a long time or the float was recently replaced. This usually will stop after a few minutes of running the outboard. If gasket continues to leak, the carb head screws might need re-tightening or the gasket might need replacement.July 6, 2016 at 11:52 pm #39751cap gasket is good, it’s just all the bowl screws. I’m making thin fuel safe cork gaskets (I love hollow punches) to insert between the nylon and the carb.
I took a little time to rebuild the carb on my daughter’s motorcycle, she’s off and running, so I can finish up!
July 7, 2016 at 1:14 am #39760Problem.
Started great, set the slow idle. Remember I’ve never used an outboard before so it’s all a learning curve for me. Water is churning, I see water spitting from up high. Unfortunately it’s from a steel tube that comes up and connects to the head. It’s leaking at the fitting on the bottom. I shut it down but it seems pretty hot. It did spit quite a bit of carbon out of the exhaust, which didn’t surprise me with the excess fuel in its past.
What is the likely issue and how much harm have I probably done?
July 7, 2016 at 1:17 am #39761July 7, 2016 at 2:27 am #39769You Tube videos of TN26 motors starting and running.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F-Ii22TMMeo
In this video, Ben is running a TN28 (this motor has the universal magneto unlike yours). I am posting this one because it shows him adjusting the high speed needle at full throttle. After setting the high speed needle, then you slow the motor down to lowest possible without killing it and adjust the low speed lever down to the bottom right facing the motor.
July 7, 2016 at 2:56 am #39771Those sound so sweet, and look like they move a little boat out quite sharply! I’m definitely not expecting to tow waterskiers or anything, but getting out to a fishing spot and back without having to help the Clinton by rowing will be a huge plus.
I have it roughly tuned in on slow and fast circuits, I can transition without stumbling or spitting. I figure the fine tuning is best done on a fully warmed up engine. I just want to get a little more time on it to be sure it’s good to go before hauling it up north and hanging it off the boat and trusting it to get me where I want to go and back.
And yep, that is where it’s spitting water. Had me worried, seemed like an odd place.
July 7, 2016 at 1:13 pm #39790time for some troubleshooting.
The engine starts very easily in the start position, but within a few seconds it starts to spit back from the port where the slow needle is, and from the carb throat. Enriching or leaning the mixture via slow needle both cause a momentary RPM increase, then spit and slowdown. Pumping the primer during a stumble causes a stall.
Tested again. Bogs on throttling up, stalls on throttling down in drive but idles okay in neutral. Really smoky, really smelly like too much oil, but I mixed TC-W3 at 16:1 in a gallon gas can. Some oil scum on the sides of the barrel and on top of the water once it settles, and a greasy coating on the lower unit.
The lower cylinder is still reasonably cool to the touch after this test run, but the gas tank and Ready Pull are hot.
Video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DEpSBAkpSvg&feature=youtu.be
July 7, 2016 at 11:08 pm #39828I removed the flywheel and found that one coil did not have sufficient clearance to the magnet hub so I set that to spec, it runs a lot more smoothly now. But after about 5 minutes of runtime, water started spurting out of two holes at the top of the driveshaft casting. I don’t think that’s supposed to happen. Looks like I have bigger problems.
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