Home › Forum › Ask A Member › Top speed with 18hp Evinrude on 14′ aluminum
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January 12, 2017 at 1:12 pm #50882
I was trying to spare you all the saga. I’ll try to keep it as concise as possible. I bought the motor 1965 18hp evinrude not running. It had been sitting a long time and it had belonged to the sellers deceased father. The seller said it needed a new coil. The first thing I did was order a coil and rebuild the carb. The lead plugs were missing from the carb, and I replaced those as well. For some, still unknown reason, I could never get the float needle to seat properly, I tried several different needles, different seats, different floats etc, but the thing would squirt fuel when the bulb was pumped.
I finally gave up on that carb and bought one off ebay. The seller had listed it wrong and sent me a much larger carb than what an 18hp uses. I filed out the manifold holes and made the carb work. With this carb installed I got the engine running for the first time but it had a severe missfire.
I bought yet another 18hp carb, and this time I received the correct part.
Back to the missifre, I replaced both coils, installed new points, condensers etc. I set the points via feeler gauge, then fine tuned them using an ohm meter. The missifre was still there. One constant problem I had was the flywheel rubbing the coils. I had the coils as far inboard as they would go and they still rubbed the flywheel. I started to be convinced the flywheel was bent, or the crank was bent, or the crankshaft bearings were bad. The flywheel did have a little bit of run out.
Since I was desperate to make progress I ended up buying a whole new powerhead. I put that powerhead on, and still had the missfire. At this point the only part of the ignition system I hadn’t replaced was the plug wires. The wires ohm’d out fine, and I had freshly terminated them. In another act of desperation I ordered a new flywheel, and the mag plate, coils and the whole shebang from the same seller who sold me the powerhead. I was also tired of fighting problems with my rope recoil (even after replacing the spring) so I ordered another one of those. Finally with all these new parts the motor seemed to run great. Nothing was left of the old setup from the midsection down. I think the missfire was probably from bad plug wires all along.January 12, 2017 at 1:16 pm #50883This is a shot of one of the pistons from the powerhead I’m using
January 12, 2017 at 1:20 pm #50884Here are some misc project photos. I took the "old" powerhead completely apart.
Old motor:
Old motor
January 12, 2017 at 1:25 pm #50885January 12, 2017 at 1:28 pm #50886https://www.dropbox.com/s/nc56y0d7w7rv8 … 2.mov?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ghotyuf0g63vw … 5.mov?dl=0
January 12, 2017 at 4:27 pm #50890quote stephenspann27:This is a shot of one of the pistons from the powerhead I’m usingI think this pic shows most of your problem. Likely your compression is suffering a bit. The rest could be prop pitch issues.
JMHO.
January 12, 2017 at 6:52 pm #50897Those pistons, the upper for sure are really rough. Most likely rings are as well. A rebuild is in order.
January 12, 2017 at 7:15 pm #50898The compression is good though.. 100 by my gauge, and 118 by the seller’s gauge.
January 12, 2017 at 8:30 pm #50900You can still have good compression and have damaged pistons and rings. I’d be willing to bet a leak down test would not yield the best results. I agree that a rebuild is in order. I get a shade over 20mph with my ’59 Evinrude 18hp on my Sea Nymph 14R with just me in the boat and still between 19.5 and 20 with the wife riding along. That’s with the stock prop. With good pistons, bores, and rings you should gain performance.
-BenOldJohnnyRude on YouTube
January 12, 2017 at 9:23 pm #50905Do you typically leave the needle bearings alone if the crank surface looks good? Just pistons, rings and gaskets? I don’t know if there is an overbore piston for these..
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