Topics: 105January 12, 2017 at 4:27 pm #50890quote stephenspann27:
I think this pic shows most of your problem. Likely your compression is suffering a bit. The rest could be prop pitch issues.
Topics: 114January 12, 2017 at 6:52 pm #50897
Those pistons, the upper for sure are really rough. Most likely rings are as well. A rebuild is in order.January 12, 2017 at 7:15 pm #50898
The compression is good though.. 100 by my gauge, and 118 by the seller’s gauge.
US Member - 1 Year
Topics: 37January 12, 2017 at 8:30 pm #50900
You can still have good compression and have damaged pistons and rings. I’d be willing to bet a leak down test would not yield the best results. I agree that a rebuild is in order. I get a shade over 20mph with my ’59 Evinrude 18hp on my Sea Nymph 14R with just me in the boat and still between 19.5 and 20 with the wife riding along. That’s with the stock prop. With good pistons, bores, and rings you should gain performance.
OldJohnnyRude on YouTubeJanuary 12, 2017 at 9:23 pm #50905
Do you typically leave the needle bearings alone if the crank surface looks good? Just pistons, rings and gaskets? I don’t know if there is an overbore piston for these..January 12, 2017 at 9:27 pm #50907
Looks like I can get .40 over pistons for cheaper than stock if the bore is bad.
US Member - 1 Year
Topics: 33January 12, 2017 at 10:04 pm #50908quote fleetwin:
Honest, these engines will start and have have low end like an absolute dream but won’t make their best RPM, with lower compression. I can’t even imagine how many 18s I have pieced together over the years and have seen the results of reassembly with new rings only, vs. a TRUE rebuild. If you take it apart, check the bore or at least the ring end gap. I bet you will find the gaps too large. The bores wear out.January 12, 2017 at 10:23 pm #50910
Yup been there done that Bill!
I just rebuilt an 18hp powerhead for someone with similar situation.
I gave him a quote which he thought was high. Brought it to someone else. THey simply put new rings in, and sanded the bore with sandpaper. Called that a rebuild. I ended up getting it back after he could not get it to run after the rebuild at high speed.
When I got it apart, found the bores out of round, and oversize to boot. All bearings shot.
You get what you pay for, go figure my grandpa was right.
US Member - 1 Year
Topics: 52January 12, 2017 at 10:40 pm #50911
You probably know this, but if you are running it as shown in that photo where it’s clamped to the boat, you need to raise the trim pin a couple notches to cut boat drag and you will gain a few MPH, it will just take longer to plane off.
DaveJanuary 12, 2017 at 10:44 pm #50912
My best advice is take your time, measure, inspect, and play detective.
Start with the bore. It is first within spec? Not out of round? Tapered?
The bore should be 2.496" Opinions on out of round tolerances or wear will vary.
Your piston to cylinder wall gap should be within .0035 to .004. Mic your piston OD, then subtract that from the Bore.
The ring end gap by the book is .007 to .017, however any more than .014 and I re ring for sure.
Once you determine if your block is good (always step #1), move on to your pistons. Measure OD. Inspect side wall for grooves. Inspect wrist pin bore.
Check the rods. MIC the ID of both big end and small end bores. Inspect for damage or grooves, or signs of overheating.
Needle bearing re use will get varying opinions. If they are bluing, absolutely toss em. Inspect them with a magnifying glass. When I do a rebuild, to be honest I install new. I figure if they got through 75 or so years, they have done their job.
Crank bearings are another tricky one to "test". Again, if I am going through trouble of a full rebuild, I install new bearings on the crank.
Check the crank halves, ensure they are true. Clean up spotless. Obviously install a new spaghetti seal. Use the proper primer and anaerobic sealer. Silly to go through all this, and pump silicone into it. Don’t laugh, seen it done. Install new gaskets, and ensure gasket surfaces are clean and true. Change ALL the seals.
Then, when complete, ensure you properly break it in. We can help with that. When you are done, if done properly, will last another 100 years, for your kids, and your kids-kids, to enjoy.
As you can imagine, doing it right is definitely NOT cheap. Yet rewarding.January 12, 2017 at 11:05 pm #50915
Here are some photos of the pistons and the bore of the original powerhead that I tore apart. The pistons look worse than what I have been able to see on the current powerhead but all of the rings are free, not chipped, there are some light scratches in the rings but nothing bad. This by no means, means that my current powerhead is fine, but it gives me some hope that maybe it’s just a prop thing.January 12, 2017 at 11:06 pm #50916quote outbdnut2:
yes sir I’ve played with different trim positionsJanuary 12, 2017 at 11:10 pm #50918quote Chris_P:
A lot of good information in your post. I might check the ring gap on my old powerhead just for giggles, it only had 90 PSI of compression.January 12, 2017 at 11:18 pm #50919
Obviously those pistons were junk!
In the bore, are my eyes playing trick, or are there gouges out of them? Bottom of 4th pic. OR is that just heavy pitting?
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