Ugly Duckling

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This topic contains 74 replies, has 15 voices, and was last updated by Avatar paulfromyork 2 years ago.

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  • frankr
    frankr
    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 3997
    Topics: 43
    #54269

    It would be my wild guess that it was a groove pin. Does it have a groove lengthwise, along one side of it? The grove makes it a hair oversize so it has to be forced into the hole. That holds it in place. But I could be incorrect on the guess. A good hardware store might have groove pins. http://www.mcmaster.com has ’em if you want to buy a package of them. Truth is, most of us old guys probably would use whatever hardened stock we happen to have laying around—like a broken drill shank. And yes, most of us make our own brass shear pins from common brass stock.

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    bullie
    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 429
    Topics: 59
    #54275
    quote Fisherman6:

    Great news! Glad you got all the pieces out. One thumb-smasher is probably better than I’d have done. 😎

    Do you have a micrometer or dial caliper or some way to get an accurate measurement of the pins? Someone may have the real OMC replacement parts, but if.you have a metal supply shop anywhere near you, you should be able to get stainless and brass round stock in the diameters you need and just cut them to length and deburr the ends and put them back in. If you don’t have any place to get the stock, let me know the sizes of the pins and I’ll make you new ones. 😉
    -Ben

    I do have a dial caliper. My reloading benches have been converted to outboard benches and tools like the caliper have lain idle for quite some time.

    The shear pin is .13 in diameter and approx .862 in length (its kinda "S" shaped). The gear pin is .13 diameter and .725 long I assume. .725 is the diameter of the gear at that point.

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    bullie
    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 429
    Topics: 59
    #54276
    quote FrankR:

    It would be my wild guess that it was a groove pin. Does it have a groove lengthwise, along one side of it? The grove makes it a hair oversize so it has to be forced into the hole. That holds it in place. But I could be incorrect on the guess. A good hardware store might have groove pins. http://www.mcmaster.com has ’em if you want to buy a package of them. Truth is, most of us old guys probably would use whatever hardened stock we happen to have laying around—like a broken drill shank. And yes, most of us make our own brass shear pins from common brass stock.

    Frank, I do not know for sure if it had a groove. I only ended up with a couple of tiny pieces. I don’t know what happened to the larger piece of pin that was in the shaft. There was a little incident involving my left index finger and a glancing blow from a hammer around the time it was knocked loose. I sort of lost track of it while doing my crouch hops. I can search for it though.

    fisherman6
    fisherman6
    US Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 1692
    Topics: 37
    #54285
    quote Bullie:

    quote Fisherman6:

    Great news! Glad you got all the pieces out. One thumb-smasher is probably better than I’d have done. 😎

    Do you have a micrometer or dial caliper or some way to get an accurate measurement of the pins? Someone may have the real OMC replacement parts, but if.you have a metal supply shop anywhere near you, you should be able to get stainless and brass round stock in the diameters you need and just cut them to length and deburr the ends and put them back in. If you don’t have any place to get the stock, let me know the sizes of the pins and I’ll make you new ones. 😉
    -Ben

    I do have a dial caliper. My reloading benches have been converted to outboard benches and tools like the caliper have lain idle for quite some time.

    The shear pin is .13 in diameter and approx .862 in length (its kinda “S” shaped). The gear pin is .13 diameter and .725 long I assume. .725 is the diameter of the gear at that point.

    My reloading bencheck is separate from my outboard work area. It has been idle for a while too though. 😕
    Let me know if you are going to need some pins made. I’m guessing that 1/8" stock will work for the gear pin (steel) and certainly for the shear pin (brass). The gear pin may need to be smacked with a cold chisel to create the groove needed to retain it. Or try buying a groove pin from McMaster-Carr as Frank suggested.
    -Ben

    OldJohnnyRude on YouTube

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    bullie
    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 429
    Topics: 59
    #54288

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/111789733387?var=410779393073

    This is the stuff I need for the shear pin?

    And this from McMaster-Carr?

    Grooved Dowel Pin
    18-8 Stainless Steel, Type A, 1/8" Diameter, 3/4" Long
    98400A603

    frankr
    frankr
    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 3997
    Topics: 43
    #54289

    If you are going to order the groove pin from mcmaster, you may as well get the brass rod there also. and save paying two shipping charges. $1.95 for a 1 ft piece. Part # 8953K101.

    Avatar
    bullie
    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 429
    Topics: 59
    #54290

    Yep. Says it will ship tomorrow.

    This LU needs grease of some sort rather than oil?

    fisherman6
    fisherman6
    US Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 1692
    Topics: 37
    #54292

    Great! I read your post and was thinking exactly what Frank said about ordering everything from McMaster-Carr.

    If that’s a grease gearcase (I’m guessing it is) I’d use John Deere Corn Head Grease in it.

    -Ben

    OldJohnnyRude on YouTube

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    bullie
    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 429
    Topics: 59
    #54293

    Groovy. I have a John Deere dealership about 2 miles from the house.

    fisherman6
    fisherman6
    US Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 1692
    Topics: 37
    #54294

    That’s funny. About 3 miles from my house. 🙂 I have 3 extra tubes on the shelf in the barn also.
    -Ben

    OldJohnnyRude on YouTube

    Avatar
    edgartc

    Replies: 14
    Topics: 7
    #54304

    It probably has push rod points, you need to take them out to clean them up, the coils and point are the same as the Johnson HD25 and TD 20

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    bullie
    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 429
    Topics: 59
    #54461

    Well, fix one issue and find another. We now have a spinning prop. That’s a good thing. The bad thing is that it doesn’t seem to be pumping any water. The little pump seems to be in good shape, but, since its the first one I have ever seen I really don’t know. It seems awfully hard. No flex to it. Should it be flexible? What else should I look for?

    Avatar
    garry-in-tampa
    Lifetime Member
    Replies: 3008
    Topics: 29
    #54473

    That Rotor pump should be rigid. It should fit to the center eccentric went NO GAP. As the eccentric rotates, the outside gap moves water around from the intake in the propeller hub to the water line to the powerhead.

    Johnson, Mercury and others used the same system. Some ingredients used in lubrication cause the rubber to swell. this moves the gap from the water side to the eccentric side, and no water will be pumped. This from the Johnson service manual. (contributed {As I Recall} by Frank Robb)

    Avatar
    bullie
    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 429
    Topics: 59
    #54488

    Thanks Garry. I will take it apart again asap and have a look.

    Avatar
    paulfromyork

    Replies: 42
    Topics: 26
    #54711

    I have made comments on this subject before. And I owe what I know to Garry from Tampa. My ELTO Sportster (’49) has maybe the same "Q ring" rubber for the pump. Or a surely similar one. The brass eccentric WAS worn small. Probably from pumping gritty dirt along with the water. I digress. Garry said, AFTER I rebuilt the eccentric, "You should replace the rubber!" I did. It made a LOT of difference. The old rubber was NOT worn badly, but it was HARD, not flexible. Pumps plenty of water now.
    P.S.- I do not mean to refute what Garry said. When I re-made my brass eccentric I was eliminating the gap inside, and it did pump more water, but he BIG IMPROVEMENT was the new rubber!

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