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March 13, 2017 at 3:25 am #54231
I guess that is possible. I do not see where it has broken off if that is case.
I have already done something very dopey this evening and I suspect this might be dopey 2.0. I am sure it is something simple that I just don’t understand well enough to recognize.
March 13, 2017 at 4:28 am #54236YES – The pin is a single piece. It is the same material as the shaft so when sheared, it is very hard to spot. Worse, when sheared it may distort the hole making it hard to drive out. Best use a brass shear pin when you get it properly back together. . . 😆
March 13, 2017 at 7:11 am #54238quote Garry in Tampa:YES – The pin is a single piece. It is the same material as the shaft so when sheared, it is very hard to spot. Worse, when sheared it may distort the hole making it hard to drive out. Best use a brass shear pin when you get it properly back together. . . 😆
Just so there is no misunderstanding, Garry means the brass shear pin in the prop. The pin in the gear is not supposed to shear, being harder material than the prop pin.
March 13, 2017 at 7:25 am #54239Absolutely brass shear pin in the propeller. If that had been done originally, the drive pin in the gear would have never sheared. . . 🙄
March 13, 2017 at 11:39 am #54242I actually feel a little better about it now. I expected to be proven a little dopey again but having someone with so much knowledge tell me that it is hard to see, well, that makes me feel a bit better. 😳
This little motor has been a trial. It runs so good now though. I hope I can get the spinny part moving. 😀
How should I go about removing the 3 pieces of pin?
March 13, 2017 at 12:34 pm #54245Glad to see we are on the right track with this one. I’m assuming the pin pieces in the gear are more clearly visible and no too difficult to drive out. The one in the prop shaft has to be found first. Once it is found, I woulove clamp it firmly in a vise with soft jaws so to not damage the outside of the shaft. Once it is secured, I’d use a center punch as near to the center of the pin as.tough can see and give it a whack. Once it starts to move, go to a pin punch a little smaller than the hole and finish driving it out. Finding the pin may be the hardest part.
-BenOldJohnnyRude on YouTube
March 13, 2017 at 4:48 pm #54256The clue is that it was drilled at the same time as the cotter pin hole. So that and the polished part where the gear was should get you close to were the pin was. . . 😉
March 13, 2017 at 5:19 pm #54264i have a couple Montgomery Ward (Sea King) motors identical to that one. Strong runners. Garry Spencer once called them the best single-cylinder engine OMC ever produced.
March 13, 2017 at 6:01 pm #54266Thanks Ben and Garry. After only smacking my finger one time I drove the 3 parts of the pin out. A major success. So, now I need a new pin #550669 and a brass shear pin. Anyone know a source for the pin?
March 13, 2017 at 6:14 pm #54268Great news! Glad you got all the pieces out. One thumb-smasher is probably better than I’d have done. 😎
Do you have a micrometer or dial caliper or some way to get an accurate measurement of the pins? Someone may have the real OMC replacement parts, but if.you have a metal supply shop anywhere near you, you should be able to get stainless and brass round stock in the diameters you need and just cut them to length and deburr the ends and put them back in. If you don’t have any place to get the stock, let me know the sizes of the pins and I’ll make you new ones. 😉
-BenOldJohnnyRude on YouTube
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