West Bend/Elgin 1957 12 hp questions

[amuller]

I”m putting one of these together.

Are there any particular weak points on these motors to be aware of other than the starter pinion?

The fuel hose connector (motor side) is one I’ve not seen before. Are hose fittings to mate with these available, or is anything else interchangeable? The threads on the fitting are 1/8 male pipe with a 3/16 in barb behind that. I think I have heard of people just using the existing fitting as a hose barb and I could live with that, but a neater solution would be nice.

Thanks for any input.

[lotec]

The fuel connector used by West Bend and on the WB made Elgins is unique, they are not easy to find. (I see 50 motors to 1 connector…) The neatest conversion I’ve done is using the later WB/Chrysler style, however the motor (male fitting) was something I scrounged and I couldn’t tell you what it came off of. As you noted, many people simply jam a hose on the male fitting or use a short hose as an adapter to an OMC or Mercury motor-end fitting. I would suggest getting the motor running and performing well, then figuring out what to do about it.

Other than the aforementioned bendix gear, they are fantastic motors. I’ve come to love my 1960 WB 12hp (mechanically the same as your ’57) so much that it has supplanted my ’55 Johnson 10hp as my go-to motor for daily use on my 12′ DuraNautic. It’s as quiet and smooth as the QD, more fuel efficient and has just a tad more power and speed – plus I love that funky "George Jetson" styling! I did the OMC coil and condenser swap that I outlined in the Tech Tip on my website. The original impellers seem very robust, but if you need one I think they cross to the Mercury/Force # 47-F901065. Fuel pump diaphragm is easy to make or can also be purchased from Mercury, # 27-818043A1.

West Bend/Elgin fuel barb

WB/Elgin Fuel Connector

I did a short video last summer on my 1960 West Bend, if you are interested it can be found at the following link:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XRNml-eKJV0

[amuller]

Thanks very much for the quick and comprehensive response. I picked up this motor a few years ago and am just now getting to it. It seems a fairly sophisticated motor. I think I will just make a pigtail to an OMC connector. The motor end on mine is so corroded/pitted that I doubt it would seal in any case.

I see West Bend went to a 24-1 fuel mix in 1960 but I’m not aware of any mechanical changes in the motors. What mix do you use? it’s hard to run a 16-1 motor without leaving a visible sheen which is (at least technically) illegal. From looking at a parts breakdown it seems there is a lip seal on the lower main bearing. I can’t tell about the top. Can you advise? (Not trying to restart an unending discussion of oils and mixes….)

I expect to have to install the OMC coils. They are about $16 on Amazon and a few other places. It would be nice to be able to buy the bare coils without the laminations….

On the starter pinion, is there any source for these? I have sufficient machine work capability that I could make one out of aluminum, but it would be a pain.

Oh, one more question: Do any alternative props work on these?

Thanks again.

Alan

[lotec]

I run all my motors on the original gas/oil mix using either Evinrude/BRP or Mercury 2-cycle oil, so I’d suggest sticking to the correct 16:1 on you motor. If it is a good quality oil rated TCW-3, you shouldn’t see a sheen on the water. And anyway, unless you get the EPA guy from the original Ghostbusters, most people will be looking at your classic West Bend and not the water!

I do not know of a source to buy the OMC coils without the laminations. About the best prices for them are from Jim Judkins (oldoutboardjim) on this site’s Webvertize section. Here’s a link to one of his ads: https://aomci.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=7158

If you have the 13-tooth pull start Bendix gear, it is available from Mercury Marine for about $25 – P/N 43-803624T. The 11-tooth ones are NLA and it’s been a long time since I’ve seen an NOS one come up for sale. I’ve seen the 12hp motors with both types so lets hope you’ve got the 13-tooth one. If you have the 11-tooth and elect to make one, please make two of them since I could use a spare! 🙂

The stock aluminum 3-blade prop is pretty good for most 12′-13′ aluminum and fiberglass boats with a normal load. I just tried out the Michigan AMC354 at our last meet and it did give a 1mph advantage over the stock prop on my DuraNautic DN12. However it weighs 3-times (or more!) what the aluminum prop does, I could feel it gronch into and out of gear every time I shifted due to the added mass. I honestly don’t need that extra 1mph as much as keeping the shift-dog and gears intact! I’ll keep the prop as an accessory but wouldn’t recommend it for daily use.

[amuller]

I have the 11 tooth gear. If I made a batch of them would anybody buy them? Do we know what other parts vary? I’ll give some though to how these could be made in a reasonable manner.

I have no enthusiasm for using heavy bronze or stainless props with dog-clutch transmissions.

[jerry-ahrens]

I’d take a couple of those plastic gears. I’ve got a 12 hp elgin that has one of those. Mine had a freeze damaged lower unit, but a local member helped me out and sold me one. I’m anxious to get it on a boat!
Ever seen a 25 hp model? I’d love to find one of those.

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[jerry-ahrens]

Here is my 12.

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[amuller]

I have a ling on a West Bend 20. Likely very similar mechanically to the pretty-common Chrysler 20s?

[amuller]

(Damn. why is it that some html pops up and my post goes away? Trying again:)

It seems the WB/early Chrysler water pump bodies mount with three screws and don’t have a drive shaft seal. The later Chryslers have four mounting screws and a seal. Are these the same except for the additional mounting screw?

Does the Chrysler water tube seal fit the earlier pump bodies? (FA510914) I don’t have an Elgin/WB listing for these.

Thanks.

[Author]

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