West Bend Shark lower unit question.

[david-bartlett]

I am working on the 1960 WB Shark. 25hp.
What is the process of removing the gear case on this motor. I need to get the skeg welded and want all the gears out. Also need to check the seals.

Does it all just slide out the back? Does the shift fork pivot screw need to come out first?

Also I will need an impeller. This on fits a size 0.625" shaft and the pump housing is just about 2.2" inside.

Thanks as always.

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[frankr]

No, it doesn’t "All" slide out the back. But perhaps enough will come out to satisfy your welder guy? Otherwise, it is a complete tear-down job. iboats might have your impeller.

[david-bartlett]

Frank,

I understand that there are two bolts/studs that hold the gearcase on to the leg. I need to know how to get to the bolt just above the propshaft. I am looking at the complete tear down at this point.

Thanks.

[retiredoz]

Gazing thru my WB manual – which has an annoying reference to ‘except 7.5 Special and ’60 25-hp’ , it does appear the process requires pulling the propshaft bearing cage. I think I can make out (from your pics) the two screw holes for two 1/4-20 screws that you can get a puller on. After removing the snap ring. Then you can get at the nut.

[david-bartlett]

Retiredoz,

That makes sense. I saw the screw heads on the carrier. Should have thought of that. Thanks.

[frankr]

This is not the correct parts list for your motor, but should give you a rough idea of what’s in there. Fortunately the carrier is not one of those big spool things found on prop exhaust motors. It ought to come out fairly easy, if it isn’t a salt water rig.

post a picture

[joesnuffy]

David,
I just re-did 2 each 12hp West Bends. The part number for my impeller housing is the same as the one in your pic 901060. The impellers I used were part number Sierra 18-8903 or Mercury f436065. I had a problem getting the water to circulate with the new Sierra impellers. When I would use the old OEM ones like in your pic I would get a good flow of water when I would use the new ones I wasn’t getting any water to flow through the engine. I made 2 thin gaskets to go under the impeller pump housing and under the stainless plate that sits under the impeller pump housing I believe the pump was sucking air possibly due to just 3 screws used in pump housing (Note in parts manual it doesn’t show gaskets). Also check to see how tight your pump housing fits on the copper tube it connects with. Mine were loose and someone had used rubber grommets on one of mine to get a snug fit. You can mod the pump housing and use a omc part number 302497 you can see it in pic I posted. You have to drill out the pump housing to get it to slide in snug and drill 2 holes on the side for the tits on the omc rubber grommet. Also shrink rap can be used on your existing set-up to get a snugger fit on the pump housing to copper tube if it is fitting just a tad loose.

The pic I used isn’t mine I pulled it off ebay.

I hope this helps.

Joe

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[david-bartlett]

Joe,

Good info, thanks. Regarding that impeller, the housing is the same BUT the drive shaft on my motor is 0.625", instead of 0.5" like on the smaller motors, so the impeller won’t work.

Thanks, David

[david-bartlett]

I got it apart. I used some threaded rod screwed into the holes on the cover and used my OMC puller just turning by hand. All looks good inside.

Does this gearcase use grease or oil? It had grease in it when I took it apart.

[retiredoz]

Book says ‘underwater gear grease’, whatever that might be. I’d think 90-wt oil would work too.

[Author]

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