What Johnson is this motor? Any documentation appreciated

[seahuntboater]

Greetings.
I picked this up today along with a frozen eska.

the Plate on the top says Model LS37 Serial Number 278994

I have never worked on an older Johnson

Before I start messing with it does anybody have any manual or parts lists ? Are there any things to beware of/ tips, tricks, etc?

The flywheel moves. No spark as of now.

Does the nut release the flywheel or do you have to get the 3 screws off the pull rope plate first?

Thanks Ralph

[Buccaneer]

Prepare to be boarded!

[wbeaton]

1937 2.1 hp. The flywheel nut is also a flywheel puller, but don’t try it as it will only end in heartbreak. Remove the rope sheave and use a harmonic balancer style puller.

Wayne
Upper Canada Chapter

uccaomci.com

[seahuntboater]

Thanks Buccanner and Wayne. I am assuming the coil will be bad .
Any idea on the carb? any diagram possible? I will get to it later in the week. Thanks

[Buccaneer]

I believe your carb is very similar to the H & T series Johnson carbs
talked about here………
http://pochefamily.org/outboard/CarbService.html

The Johnson 3rd Edition manual covers your carb thoroughly.
I have it in PDF but my email server won’t let me send that
big of file……. 99.1 mb’s.

Prepare to be boarded!

[David Bartlett]

seahuntboater wrote:

Thanks Buccanner and Wayne. I am assuming the coil will be bad .
Any idea on the carb? any diagram possible? I will get to it later in the week. Thanks

Don’t assume that the coil is bad. The original coils are very well made and often work just fine after cleaning the points and other connections.

I have several 80 & 90 year old motors with working original ignition systems. Mostly Johnson’s.

Keep asking questions.

David Bartlett
Pine Tree Boating Club Chapter

"I don't fully understand everything I know!"

[seahuntboater]

Thanks Buccanner and Dave. that carburetor information is Extremely helpful. 2 questions though…. If you can’t find thicker cork stoppers can you use crazy glue to put two together and then seal as described? and to adjust the float on the rod to figure out the correct height do you just put fuel in the bowl and push the float up and down until it stops leaking ? add a little distance extra? etc.

Dave- good news on possible good coil.

Can’t wait to play with my Johnson.

[Buccaneer]

Those floats normally only have 1/4″ to 3/8″ of travel up and down.
If the float pin doesn’t have grooves for clips that positions the
cork float in position, but has locking spring clips, just make
sure the top of the float is 1/4″ or so below the float cover when
the float and pin is up to it’s seated position.

I don’t know why you couldn’t glue two cork pieces together,
but there should be plenty available “out there”.
I bought a bag full of various sizes of corks off of Ebay a few years ago.

Prepare to be boarded!

[seakaye12]

Buccaneer wrote:

I believe your carb is very similar to the H & T series Johnson carbs
talked about here………
http://pochefamily.org/outboard/CarbService.html

The Johnson 3rd Edition manual covers your carb thoroughly.
I have it in PDF but my email server won’t let me send that
big of file……. 99.1 mb’s.

Buc….if you want to send that 99 MB file to someone….I could suggest that you use a free service called WeTransfer.

https://wetransfer.com/

It’s completely free 100% Free to both the sender and recipient and requires no registration or other nuisance….and it works very well. It allows free transfer for files up to 2GB.

I use it so send large image and video files that cannot be sent through e-mail etc.

Chuck

[lloyd]

The Poche website covers pretty much everything you need to know. I helped Dave Poche put together the site many years ago. But please note that I had to increase the price of Leather Primer Seals and instructions a few years ago to $10.00 per set.

[Author]

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