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  • #243780
    Matthew Pieklik
    Participant

      US Member

      Well , I dug into my gear case a little deeper. I ground down the JB Weld and found mine was welded just like the one outbdnut2 has. The weld ring is right outside where the snap ring groove is that holds everything in the gear case. So I looked in the groove with my naked eye and all I saw was 2 eroded spots. Then when I put the camera on it and jacked up the vision, It looks there are some hair line cracks in the groove. That groove looks big enough where it might retain enough water and freeze and put the cracks in. I also wonder seeing both our gear cases are welded the same way that it wasn’t a factory recommended warranty fix. Moving forward, Matt.

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      #243858
      outbdnut2
      Participant

        US Member

        Good observation on those magnified hairline cracks! If I have to pull the welded one I/m working on apart, I’ll definitely look for that. I’m hoping I don’t have to take that apart, as the current problem has to be driveshaft or shift rod seals up top of the gearcase…or the gearcase top gasket.

        I probably won’t get to it for a month or so – he’s in no hurry for the motor and I have other things to do.

        I’ll look for those cracks on my parts motor too – but it’s kind of inaccessible right now where it’s stored, so that will likely be awhile before I can get to that also.
        Dave.

        #243863
        Matthew Pieklik
        Participant

          US Member

          My drive shaft was also stuck in the crank. I had to use the vise grip slide hammer method. came right out . There was some rust build up on the splines. No evidence of grease. After a clean up, it fits and releases well.

          #245518
          Matthew Pieklik
          Participant

            US Member

            Went to the dry swap meet at Vail Mills,New York sponsored by The Mohawk Hudson chapter last weekend. There I found a donor motor. A 1966 Montgomery Ward 6 hp. 1966.
            It had a good gear housing … No cracks. On the donor motor, the motor was all white except the gear housing. It was silver. so I’m thinking it too was replaced at one time.
            So…took it off, cleaned it all up and put it on my 5 hp. Bolted right on. There is a little difference between the two on the outside but everything lined right up. Same gasket. On the replacement there is a groove that looks there should be an o-ring or some sort of spaghetti seal. There wasn’t one. However, there is plenty of permatex.
            I guess on that design, The groove where the retaining ring snaps in to hold everything in place is the weak point. A little water in the groove with some cold weather is just enough to pop it.
            So now, what to do with a good running 5 hp Montgomery Ward outboard? Tag it, put it on the rack and let my Executor deal with it.!

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            #245538
            elgin2
            Participant

              US Member

              I have a 65 20hp Chrysler and a67 6hp Sea King. Both have the silver lower end.

              #245540
              need2fish
              Participant

                I have 4 or 5 of the West Bend/Chrysler 5hp Viking/Sea King. All of them have immaculate powerheads… I believe they’re pristine because the lower unit rear propshaft popped and that was the end of the motor.

                The motors I have that don’t have epoxy are missing chunks of the gearcase where the c-clip resides. I used to think it was a freeze problem, but after looking at a dozen units in the process of falling apart, but I believe the cause is repeated high-rpm shifting causes the aluminum case to fatigue and eventually pop off the lower unit along with the bearing carrier, gears and all the other oily bits.. If you have any of the metal left that can be used as a template to use aluminum weld to build out the missing spots, maybe you can find a way to hold the rear carrier some other way or have someone machine what gets built up using the aluminum rod.

                A word to anyone with a 64-66 5/6/9.6, inspect the gearcase near the rear carrier and weld up any cracks now before it’s too late.

                #245543
                amuller
                Participant

                  A West Bend design as noted above. The snap ring gearcase is a weak spot for sure. I suspect that if care is taken to make sure the snap ring has proper tension and is fully seated things will stay together. Not sure if that snap ring is a standard hardware item but it might be.

                  Another weak spot is the starter gear, which wants to be treated gently.

                  #245599
                  elgin2
                  Participant

                    US Member

                    The starter gear is fragile. I would use the flywheel to start it.Franz Marine is the place to go for parts and info.

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