Year of Manufacture and Diagrams Needed

[Buccaneer]

I picked up a couple of $20 jewels in the rough today that
I could use some information on, i.e., year made of each,
and any literature, diagrams, etc. would be great!

#1
Firestone (twin cylinder 5hp) Looks to be early 1950’s?
Ser. # 5017644298
Code # 133-0-5017
Stock # 10-A-73
Pistons moves back and forth a little freely, but it feels like
the water pump impeller is froze….. kind of rubbery feeling when
rocking the flywheel back and forth. Is this possible?
Has a lever on the side of the cowling. Not sure if this is a
shift mechanism or what?…… does not move. It’s hooked
up to a piece on the drive shaft tube.
Flywheel does not want to "pop off" with the three bolt puller
very tight and puller bolt being "Whacked" good a few times.
Left tension on the puller and am hoping it will magically pop
during the night!

#2 (looks to be circa 1970)
Ward Sea King 7hp (Clinton engine)
Model K700 2107A
Type 60 27370 R
Is this unit completely "air cooled", does it have a water pump for cooling
the exhaust?
Upper cowling is fiberglass and cracked up…….. looked like it rolled
down a mountain while on a portage.

Thanks for any help or insight.
Buccanneer

Prepare to be boarded!

[frankr]

#1. Ordinarily, I would say that Firestone is similar to the Scott Atwater model 501. But the 501 was 4hp. So…(?). But yes, that is a gear shift lever, and the gizmo you are looking at is the reverse tilt lock to hold it down when shifted to reverse. As for the springy feel, a lot of those era Scotts had a flat spring steel bar as a drive shaft. A "shock absorber" if you will. Sounds like the lower unit may be froze, and you are feeling the wind-up feature of the drive shaft.

#2. That is a Clinton motor, adapted from a Clinton Chainsaw engine. The powerhead is air cooled, but as you suggest, it does have a water pump to cool the exhaust. And it is necessary for the pump to work, because if it doesn’t, the exhaust will get extremely hot and the powerhead overheats too because it is like sitting on a hot stove.

[frankr]

BTW, Scott 501 was made in 1950

[frankr]

Here are a few Clinton parts:
http://www.farmfeliz.org/outdoor-power- … n-chainsaw

[Buccaneer]

Thanks Frank. Looks like I’ll have to see how the lower unit
comes off the Firestone and operate! In the mean time,
I’ll keep hunting for some diagrams or repair manual.

Prepare to be boarded!

[frankr]

Sorry for the fuzzy picture. But those lower units are so simple. 501-2907 is the drive shaft "spring".

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[Buccaneer]

Thanks again Frank! I’m glad you found the parts diagram on the lower unit,
as I wasn’t finding much on my searches.
Is the drive shaft in two pieces, joined by the spring?
Whats the most likely cause of the lower unit being "locked up"
Ball bearing froze?

I did find this info, from the last
place I would have thought to look…..
From ABOS Marine Blue Book
Model10-A-73 (1950-1953)

Configuration –

Bore Stroke – Inches: 1.69×1.67
Dry Weight: 45
Engine size Cubic Inches: 7.48
Number of Cylinders: 2
Rated Horsepower: 5.
Rated RPM: 4000
Serial Number: 5117 Series
Starter Type: Manual

Prepare to be boarded!

[frankr]

Yeah, there is a splined stub section at the top, and I think also at the bottom. But there is an aluminum tube surrounding the whole assembly to keep it in place. It will all be obvious when you see it.

I think you are probably correct, rusted bearings from water in the case.

I have the rest of the parts diagrams if you need them. They are for the Scott-Atwater version, but shouldn’t be much different except the tank & cowling.

[Buccaneer]

Frank, I’d greatly appreciate the other diagrams for this motor.
I’d like to see how the shift and reverse lock mechanism is
suppose to work (wont move right now) and parts numbers are
great…….. not that I’m going to find many I’m sure!
Thanks again, Buccaneer

Prepare to be boarded!

[Buccaneer]

Took apart a little more of the Firestone today, but so far I’m not able
to get the front cover off (where the inboard prop bearing would be).
The cover itself is loose, but it tries to pull along the prop shaft and all the
innards……. which ain’t gonna happen. Perhaps it’s the inner bearing that’s
froze up preventing the lower unit from spinning over?
Other concerns are, that when I pulled the power head off, I see that the
drive shaft is way over to one side, with tension on it……. bent???
Ever try to look down a 1-1/4" tube with a trouble light? Can’t see nothing!
Flywheel still won’t pop off, and so far I’m chicken to get the torch out.
Thoughts on the lower unit would be great. Thanks, Bucanneer
P.S. – Photos below
http://grayhitandmiss.com/Outboards/firestone.jpg
http://grayhitandmiss.com/Outboards/dscn4885.jpg
http://grayhitandmiss.com/Outboards/dscn4886.jpg
http://grayhitandmiss.com/Outboards/dscn4887.jpg

Prepare to be boarded!

[Author]

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